Travelling to Indonesia, with a stopover in Singapore on our outbound way.

Travelogue Indonesia 1981
Quite an expense then, Dutch guilders on the invoice. In 1981 we travelled with cash in guilders, dollars and
traveller cheques, for local change to Rupees. My Diners Club credit card was only accepted in luxury hotels.
Very different from 2025 when I editted and expanded this 'travelogue'!

Travelogue Indonesia 1981
Via Singapore to Jakarta, a special arrangemet by SIA we went for.

 

A nightstop in Singapore, exploring the sights
Travelogue Singapore 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Merlion Park's most iconic resident – the majestic Merlion.

Travelogue Singapore 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Traditional boats and houses on the harbour front, modern high-rise on the horizon

Travelogue Singapore 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
'Seaman's Paradise'... Only this 'club' stood in an area of redevelopment (near the harbour)

Travelogue Singapore 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Travelogue Singapore 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
I did not know it then but it would become a sporting pleasure for
me to photograph people handling a camera ☺

 



Travelogue Indonesia 1981

During 1981 my wife and I travelled to Asia for the very first time. We were warned by concerned family and friends about properties being easily stolen, tricks by beggars, the food, the water, the change in culture.... But we took the flight by Singapore Airlines to Jakarta and tried to be open-minded about most things.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Travelogue Indonesia 1981
In green some major visits: Jakarta, Tangkuban Prahu, Yogyakarta & Dieng Plateau. Yellow: the trainride.

 

I recall the arrival at the airport of Jakarta as less chaotic than expected.
The road to the city was wide and made modern for that important first impression.
National Monument on the Medah Merdeka Square
Oe could cut the hazy smog with a knife!

The monument is the National Monument on the Medah Merdeka Square (EN=Freedom Square) and is 137 meters high with 35 kgs gold used to decorate the flame on top (erected during the reign of President Sukarno).

We braced ourselves to meet Indonesia, or perhaps I should should be more precise: Jakarta!
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
While I live in a crowded country myself, Indonesia numbers some 70 million people and Jakarta alone accounted for 5 million (including some 250.000 homeless). So we expected crowded streets and some chaos (total disregard it seemed for traffic rules), but the pollution in this month of September was an unexpected and unpleasant bonus. Many people walking the streets wore a mask for their mouth.

Jakarta was named "Sunda Kelapa" when it was the capital of a Hindu empire, 'Pajajara'. In 1527 it was conquered by Muslims and renamed Jayakarta ("place of victory").
It was torn down by the Dutch in 1602 and renamed, after rebuilt in 1619, 'Batavia'.
When Indonesia declared itself independent (17Aug45) Batavia was renamed Jakarta.

Our source for information:
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
'Indonesia Handbook'by Bill Dalton.
The forerunner of so many travel guides, e.g. Lonely Planet.

 


Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Possibly in the garden of the Kartika Plaza Hotel, or a park nearby.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
We got a lot of stares by the locals: maybe Westerners out on their own wasn't a common sight yet.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Martinair flew the socalled 'Hadj-flights' and crew stayed in the Kartika Plaza (which brought me a discount too)

 


We were glad to be out of muggy, stinking Jakarta and found ourselves a taxi to Bandung, via the Botanical
Gardens of Bogor.
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
It was a bit hectic ride: the driver not speaking a word of English or any other foreign language and he
thought the drive was straight to Bandung... I had to tap him on the shoulder and direct him to the highway exit.
But we got there and enjoyed a guided tour around the beautiful gardens.
After our visit we again continued in a hectic mode as the regular highway was blocked from all traffic, due to
President Suharto passing on that main road... So we drove with millions of other assorted vehicles via Sukabumi,
while the driver tried to make up for lost time !

Warung seen from the taxi we were in.
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Here is a 'Warung', small eating cabins.

  Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Due to the busy traffic, we slowed down frequently and while the driver looked for an impossible moment to overtake the slower traffic, I sometimes found a moment to click the shutter of my camera. So many beautiful scenic moments !
An obvious example of the "slower traffic", the horse-and-cart.
I was glad I did not understand much of the language our driver uttered, while blowing his horn and waving his arms...

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
The view from our hotel

We found Bandung a disappointment, mainly to do with the first hotel we stayed in. But the excursion to the
volcano saved the day, though we felt less than 100% after a bad night.
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
This had a lot to do with a bad hotel experience. Hotel Harapan gave us a room which was not very clean,
personnel spoke little English (except the obvious "yes, yes...") and when we returned from an excursion, at 1100 am,
we found the remains of our breakfast had not been removed from our room. No wonder we had cockroaches in
our room!
Also, the taxi we had requested for the following morning, initially did not show up... The reception had failed, again.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
We did like the excursion to the volcano ("Gunung") Tangkuban Prahu! It was a tiresome walk through a tropical
forest and sometimes the footpath was hard going, but it was an experience in itself.

The volcano is situated about 30 kilometers north of Bandung and lies at an height of 2.076 meters.
The guide tried to cheat us out of more money, of course, but we did not budge.
We also changed to another, better hotel ('Hotel Kumala'), where we managed to regain our composure.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Inside the volcano we found ourselves among steaming geysers, which produced a smell like rotten eggs.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Getting to the floor of the volcano was a bit of a jungle experience!

Our trainride across Java, I loved the adventure though we had to face up to a long day in ths slow train
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

One of the highlights of this trip, a long and winding trainride thru some of the best scenery of Indonesia !
The toilets weren't very clean, but the food was good.
The train took about two hours longer to travel from Bandung to Yogyakarta, but that was expected. The train ride took 12 hours, but we were glad we hadn't taken the more luxurious nighttrain, as we would have missed a lot !

At the trainstations there was food and drinks offered for sale
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
I just sat on the steps of the train carriage and watched the landscape go by...
The most beautiful scenery past by while the train found its way in a slow confident manner.
The first few hours were the most impressive, as the scenery show a great variety.
Sometimes I got a scare: when I looked down, I looked into a deep canyon when we crossed
on a (seemingly) rickety bridge... And my fear of heights is legendary!

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
RICE ! Everything evolves around rice here... Four out of five people in Indonesia work the ricefields.
Religious festivals, weddings, are all planned around planting and harvesting the rice.
And it isn't just a pretty picture: I enjoy all these rice dishes!

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
The train travelled often very close to people: some went on with the jobs, others laughed and waved.
I felt pretty good sitting on the steps of the carriage!

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Buffalo's (Kerbau's) fleeing from the train..
Tropical forrest and a volcano complement the photo.

After the long trainride of 10+ hours we checked in at the Puri Artha acommodation (cottages & restaurant)
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
The Puri Artha was a suggestion by a Martinair colleague who knew Indonesia well.
This was very scenic but a bit out of the way for everything, for money changes and booking tours we need to go
to the nearby Sheraton (where we moved to after 2 nights here).

The 'Kraton' of the Sultan, a village onto itself with many buidlings and covered structures.
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Boy, it was hot here..!

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)



Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
We visited a worksop of a silver smith and a place where they manufactured 'batik'.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Keeping the fire going

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
We were impressed by the hard-working people in the glass- and batik factory, though.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Batik is a dyeing technique using wax resist. The term is also used to describe patterned textiles created with that technique.
Batik is made by drawing or stamping wax on a cloth to prevent colour absorption during the dyeing process.
This creates a patterned negative when the wax is removed from the dyed cloth.
Artisans may create intricate coloured patterns with multiple cycles of wax application and dyeing. Patterns and motifs vary widely even within countries.
Some patterns hold symbolic significance and are used only in certain occasions, while others were created to satisfy market demand and fashion trends. ¬Wikipedia

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
We went to the palace of the Sultan, but either the richness did not translate to us or we suffered from the heat:
it did not impress us much.

PRAMBANAN TEMPLE
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

The temple compound, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the largest Hindu temple site in Indonesia and the second-largest in Southeast Asia after Angkor Wat.
It is characterized by its tall and pointed architecture, typical of Hindu architecture, and by the towering 47-metre-high (154 ft) central building inside a large complex of individual temples.
Prambanan temple compounds originally consisted of 240 temple structures, which represented the grandeur of ancient Java's Hindu art and architecture, and is also considered as a masterpiece of the classical period in Indonesia. ¬Wikipedia

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
So many stones, a complex puzzle!

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

We found the Prambanan temple complex very impressive, indeed. For hours we walked among this immense complex, while traces of restoration were to be seen left and right.
We read up on the history. It is a 12 kilometers area dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva.
The main temple reached almost 50 meters in height and was for more than a century the heighest building on Java.
Just like the Borobodur, it was built in the 10th Century and abandoned during a large migration of nations. It was built during the reign of theKing of Mataran, who believed himself to be a reincarnation of Shiva.

 

Rest & relaxation
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
The Sheraton where we moved to from the Puri Artha Cottages. That swimming pool was such a relief!
The 'mall' here had all the conveniences we required for changing money, eating and booking excursions.

 


Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
We visited several temples, one was 'Candi Mendut'.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Candi Mendut also stems from the times of the Borobodur, indicating a high standard of civilisation.
Inside are 3 statues: one of Buddha and on each side a Bodhisattva ('semi saint'). The statues are 2.5 meters high.
A Bodhisattva is motivated by pure compassion and love. Their goal is to achieve the highest level of being: that of a Buddha. Bodhisattva is a Sanskrit term which translates as: Bodhi [enlightenment] and sattva [being]. The Bodhisattva will undergo any type of suffering to help another sentient being, whether a tiny insect or a huge mammal.
Many of these temples have been plundered through the ages, but these statues were too heavy to move !

BOROBODUR
Borobudur
I had to use a picture from a brochure to make clear what size we are talking here... The name Borobodur probably / allegedly stems from one of the oldest languages on this earth, Sanskrit and would have meant "Buddhist Monastery"
or "High Place". Unfortunately it did not have the quiet of the Prambanan complex for us and people tried to
sell t-shirts, postcards, etc to the busloads of tourists. The crowds spoiled things somewhat.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Borobudur, also transcribed Barabudur (Indonesian: Candi Borobudur, Javanese: ꦕꦤ꧀ꦝꦶꦧꦫꦧꦸꦝꦸꦂ, romanized: Candhi Barabudhur), is a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist temple in Magelang Regency, near the city of Magelang and the town of Muntilan, in Central Java, Indonesia.
Constructed of gray andesite-like stone, the temple consists of nine stacked platforms, six square and three circular, topped by a central dome.
It is decorated with 2,672 relief panels and originally 504 Buddha statues.
The monument guides pilgrims through an extensive system of stairways and corridors with 1,460 narrative relief panels on the walls and the balustrades.
Borobudur has one of the world's most extensive collections of Buddhist reliefs. ¬Wikipedia

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
The central dome is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues, each seated inside a perforated stupa.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
It is hard to believe that this temple has been buried for centuries under volcanic debris and plants!
The 'stupa's' should all contain a statue but many have been robbed or destroyed by muslim vandals.
All the walls, and this is even more interesting than the size of the temple, are decorated with scenes from Sanskrit manuscripts and tell the story of Buddha and the religion. The mural portrays the arrival of Buddhism in Java.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
Borobudur has one of the world's most extensive collections of Buddhist reliefs.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
"Wayang" means "shadow" or "ghost" and is a theatrical performance by performers, with puppets ("Wayang Golek") of shadow creations ("Wayang Kulit").
Dialogue is in Javanese language or Sundanees, while the music is in an old fashioned language ("Klaten" or "Kawi"). A performance can last all night and reflects all aspects of Javenese culture: characters are not judged by their actions but their devotion to what is proper; gestures mean more than common sense, style more than satisfaction, while courage, loyalty and finesse always win. Fate should be accepted without discussion or doubt.
The stories go back to 3.000 years of mythology and "Wayang" probably date from the 9th century.


Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)
As soon as we got out of our van or taxi people showed up to gawk or try to sell stuff.

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)


We chartered a taxi, driver & guide for a daytrip, mainly for the Dieng Plateau (with stops en route)
Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

Indonesia travelogue 1981 - Ruud Leeuw (c)

One of the most impressive things we experienced during this Indonesia trip, was our visit to the Dieng Plateau. We chartered a taxi, which came with both a driver and a guide, for this 11-hour excursion from Yogyakarta.
A nice drive brought us to this plateau, which is rich in small temples and volcanos. Clouds hung low and the air was thick with the gasses from the volcanos. The unhealthy atmosphere has bad effects on the people here: physical disfigurations could be seen on people and children.
The temples on the Dieng Plateau ( 2093 m. above sealevel) stem from the 9th century and are among the oldest on Java.
The atmosphere is a bit spooky: silently the clouds drift among the temples.

This concluded our travels through parts of Java; next was a flight from Yogya to Denpasar, Bali.

BALI 1981

UPDATED: 08-Mrt-2025

 


TRAVEL Index