USA 2017

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Photos © Ruud Leeuw

 

Another roadtrip through some of the US States I like best: the southwest of the US.
The mix this time was revisiting some parts I have visited 2 or 3 decades ago, travelling a part of the route I travelled with my parents (now
both deceased) in the 1990s. As well as the usual activities: giving maximum use to my camera, including aviation photography.
Here goes...

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
We flew to Houston-IAH, but got stranded there. Here's the scene early the next morning preparing for IAH-SLC.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Departing Salt Lake City, heading east, we crossed the mountains in rain and snow.
But after the mountains the sky soon cleared.

"I believe that much unseen is also here." ¬Walt Whitman, Leaves of Grass

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Moab. Initially my satnav sent me to a 'Moab' closer to Las Vegas, but we noticed it in time.
Since my last visit to Moab, in 1983, things have changed a lot here. The town is flooded now with visitors, for Arches NP but also
for activity sports such as mountain biking and off-road driving. Shops have opened for the outdoor activities plus an increased
number of restaurants. But it also kept close to its identity and I found it a very pleasant town to visit.


ZAX is a popular place to dine.

 


ARCHES NATIONAL PARK


Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Arches National Park.
Again I came to the conclusion that this is probably the finest National Park, of the entire USA, to visit.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Standing Rock.
Besides the arches there are plenty of other remarkable rockformations to admire.

Arches National Park is a United States National Park in eastern Utah.
The park is adjacent to the Colorado River, 4 miles (6 km) north of Moab, Utah.
It is home to over 2.000 natural sandstone arches, including the world-famous Delicate Arch, in addition to a variety of unique geological resources and formations. It contains the highest density of natural arches in the world.
Forty-three arches are known to have collapsed since 1977.
The park receives on average 10 inches (250 mm) of rain a year.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arches_National_Park

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Sand Dune Arch.
We noticed the Broken Arch in the distance, on a fork of the trail, but left that for another visit.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Skyline Arch

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Making our way to Double Arch.
Earlier I had mistaken the Double O Arch for this one and walked that -long- trail. Unfortunately an attack of vertigo
prevented me from reaching the Double O Arch, the trail also being much more strenuous than I remembered it.
Quite rightly, as I had never walked that trail...
Double Arch - Arches NP (2017)
The people are reduced to ant-size here at the Double Arch. Awesome!

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Near Double Arch are several more arches.
The trail for Turret Arch (above) also heads out to The Windows Section, North Window en South Window arches.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Landscape Arch
When I visited it in the 1980s one could still walk up to it, but during the 1990s a large chunk of stone fell from it and
for safety reasons a barrier has been placed on a safe distance.

At the end of the day we started out for Delicate Arch, but had used all our water. And we did not know if we could make it before closing time of the park. This late in the season we could not replenish our water inside the park. So we gave up on it, with much regrets.
But... at the end of this vacation we revisited Arches NP and did walk that trail to Delicate Arch. It had to be done!
See my PAGE TWO (link at bottom page) for that report.


 

 

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
At Moab we had a very nice stay. For the best breakfast in town I can recommend The Pancake Haus, esspecially for
their 'Banana Split Pancakes'! Another good breakfast was enjoyed at The Jailhouse.
We took our dinners at Zax and Eddie McStiff's, both very nice places and a good selection of specialty beers.


 

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
A few images from the road, making our way in Colorado, destination Silverton.
I think this is Ouray,CO

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Remains of mining here in the mountains.

 

 

SILVERTON, CO

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Silverton is a beautiful little town, -Wikipedia-

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
These 'all-road' buggies are a frequent sight in these rugged mountains.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
As it once was here...
Photo from a framed picture in a restaurant.

Silverton is a former silver mining camp, most or all of which is now included in a federally designated National Historic Landmark District, the Silverton Historic District. The town population reached its nadir at 531 at U.S. Census 2000. It has grown since then.
This town is linked to Durango by the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, a National Historic Landmark.
There is no longer active mining here, but it subsists by tourism, maintenance of US 550 (which links Montrose with Durango via Silverton), mine pollution remediation, and retirees.

In 2002 an extreme ski mountain, Silverton Mountain, opened near the town.
en.wikipedia.org:_Silverton,_Colorado

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Plenty of restaurants here, we had breakfast at Big Bear Restaurant (on the right).

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
In the early morning sun we had a nice stroll in this enchanting town.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw

 

 

 

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
The second part of the Million Dollar Highway is easier to drive. The part Ouray-Silverton had more switchbacks and
the width of the road seemed more narrow than the part Silverton-Durango.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Indian country
Unfortunately the program for this day could not include a revisit to Mesa Verde NP as we had a long drive to Winslow,AZ
En route I took some photos, mainly while driving. In October the days are getting notably shorter.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
A procession of Native Americans on horseback

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
We did make a quick stop at Window Rock, just across the border of New Mexico in Arizona.
It seemed to me the site is getting a makeover for tourism and why not. Next time we'll visit the museum here.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Next stop was at Hubbell Trading Post [wikipedia], a National Historic Site.
We had only some 15 minutes to check what was inside, as we arrived just before closing time.
It is a working store and one can buy souvenirs too. We bought some lip balm.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw

 

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
The sun setting, heading for Winslow.

Got her doors locked doin' 75
Don't care to be caught now, dead or alive
Seen enough to kill anyone's soul
Keepin' her eyes on the open road
Keepin' her eyes on the open road

The open road where the hopeless come
To see if hope still runs
One by one they bring their broke down loads
And leave 'em where the hobo dreams are stowed
Out on the open road
Out on the open road

...
¬John Hiatt, The Open Road (part)

 

WINSLOW, AZ

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Besides the Route 66 aspect of Winslow,AZ I wanted to visit this town for the photobook Stephen Shore had produced on it.
Stephen Shore is a photographer I much admire.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
The 'Standing On A Corner of Winslow Arizona' in the song 'Take It Easy', by The Eagles, was an added bonus.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Winslow has modest restaurant facilities and we opted for the Brown Mug.
This Mexican restaurant has a framed picture on the wall, "Harrison Ford was here!"

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw


Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Winslow by daylight

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw

 

 

 

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
On the road again!

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
We drove through Apache-Sitgreaves Nat'l Forest and we arrived at Globe, which made a distinct rundown impression on me.
With some difficulty we found a place to have lunch, at 'Envida e Coffee': they had some cakes left.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Another long day on the road and we arrived under darkness at Bisbee.
We had two close encounters with deer caught in our headlights, fortunately no one got hurt.

The scenic drive today took us through the White Mountain Apache territory and the San Carlos Apache Tribe territory, a beautiful scenic route in our opinion. But the area has a deplorable history...

The San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation, in southeastern Arizona, United States, was established in 1872 as a reservation for the Chiricahua Apache tribe as well as surrounding Yavapai and Apache bands forcibly removed from their original homelands under a strategy devised by General Crook of using an Apache to catch an Apache.
Also known as 'Hell's Forty Acres' under United States occupation, because of deplorable health and environmental conditions.
On 14Dec1872, President U.S. Grant established the San Carlos Apache Reservation.
The government gave various religious groups responsibility for managing the new reservations, and the Dutch Reformed Church was in charge of the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation. The church chose John Clum, who turned down the position twice (!), before accepting the commission as Indian Agent for the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation in the Arizona Territory on 16Feb1874.

The U.S. Army showed both animosity toward the Indians and disdain for the civilian Indian Agents. Soldiers and their commanding officers sometimes brutally tortured or killed the Indians for sport, while politicians in Washington, D.C., knew little about differences in tribal cultures, customs, and language.
Politicians also ignored political differences and military alliances and tried to apply a 'one-size-fits-all' strategy to deal with the 'Indian problem'. As a result, tribal friends and foes were forced to live in close proximity to one another.
Meanwhile, the Apaches were supposed to be fed and housed by their caretakers, but they rarely saw the federal money and suffered as a result.
Wikipedia, read more..

I am compiling this report during the 'early hours' of the Donald J. Trump administration and can only conclude that 'white America' has a sad and dismal track record dealing with ethnic minorities. It is a history of racism, discrimination, greed and war. To this day, with American greed endangering water supplies of indian tribes!
en.wikipedia.org:_Keystone_Pipeline
www.cbsnews.com/news/stand-off-in-the-great-plans-as-native-americans-fight-oil-pipeline-construction


Well, they put Geronimo in jail down south
Where he couldn't look the gift horse in the mouth
Sergeant, sergeant, don't you feel
There's something wrong with that automobile
Governor, governor, isn't it strange
They didn't have no cars on the Indian range
Warden, warden, please listen to me
Be brave and set Geronimo free

Whoa boys, take me back
I want to ride in Geronimo's Cadillac
Whoa boys, take me back
I want to ride in Geronimo's Cadillac
Let me ride, let me ride

Warden, warden, don't you know
Prisoners have no place to go
They took old Geronimo by storm
Ripped off the feathers from his uniform

...
'Geronimo's Cadillac' - Johnny Rivers (originally by Michael Martin Murphey)


 

BISBEE, AZ

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
My first visit to Bisbee ever! It was recommended to me as a good place to find live music, and so it was!
We checked in at the beautiful Bisbee Inn/LaMore Hotel and made haste to find food and drinks at the Copper City Saloon, next door.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Celeste is the energetic owner of the Copper City Saloon and had taken over the place only six months prior to our visit!
Only she and the DJ (playing 1980s music) had given heed to the 1980s theme of this evening. I liked Celeste's outfit best and paid
the DJ a drink. A really nice place and high on the list for an extended revisit. We'll be back...

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
In the evening we walked around in the Historic District and from several places we heard live music being played.
More next time!

 

 

TOMBSTONE, AZ

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Tombstone certainly had grown since our last visit, decades ago!
Hard-core tourist stuff here, but ever so nice to spend a sunny morning.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw

Tombstone is a historic city in Cochise County, Arizona, founded in 1879 by prospector Ed Schieffelin in what was then Pima County, Arizona Territory.
It became one of the last boomtowns in the American frontier. The town grew significantly into the mid-1880s as the local mines produced US$40 to US$85 million in silver bullion, the largest productive silver district in Arizona. Its population grew from 100 to around 14.000 in less than seven years.
It is of course best known as the site of the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral and presently draws most of its revenue from tourism.

Tombstone had a bowling alley, 4 churches, an ice house, a school, 2 banks, 3 newspapers, and an ice cream parlor, alongside 110 saloons, 14 gambling halls, and numerous dance halls and brothels.
All of these businesses were situated among and on top of a large number of hardscrabble mines.
The gentlemen and ladies of Tombstone attended operas presented by visiting acting troupes at the Schieffelin Hall opera house, while the miners and cowboys saw shows at the Bird Cage Theatre.

Under the surface were tensions that grew into deadly conflict...
The mining capitalists and the townspeople were largely Republicans from the Northern states.
Many of the ranchers (some of whom -like the Clantons- were also rustlers or other criminal varieties) were Confederate sympathizers and Democrats.
The booming city was only 30 mls (48 km) from the U.S.-Mexico border and was an open market for cattle stolen from ranches in Sonora, Mexico, by a loosely organized band of outlaws known as The Cowboys.
The Earp brothers -Wyatt, Virgil and Morgan- accompanied by Doc Holliday, arrived in December 1879 and mid-1880.
The Earps had ongoing conflicts with Cowboys Ike and Billy Clanton, Frank and Tom McLaury, and Billy Claiborne. The Cowboys repeatedly threatened the Earps over many months, until the conflict escalated into a shootout on 26Oct1881.

The historic gunfight is often portrayed as occurring at the O.K. Corral, though it actually occurred a short distance away in an empty lot on Fremont Street.
en.wikipedia.org:_Tombstone,_Arizona

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw

 

 

 

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
A nice lunch in Big Nose Kate's Saloon, a tavern dating back to 1881

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
The museum, The Bird Cage Theatre

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
I got lucky when this enormous motorcade drove through town.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
With 88 F / 31 C in the sun it was a very nice day for a cool drive!

 

 

 

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Heading for Tucson we soon came across this roadblock outside Tombstone. But we were waved through.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
First things I noticed in Tucson was the fine graffiti and I recorded a few places.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw

Graffiti in Tucson, 2017
How's that for a mural?!!

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw



I love shopping for books and Antigone Bookstore provided a few titles.
Always glad to see a kid reading a book rather an iPad.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
I visited the Center for Creative Arts and Photography for this exhibition of work by Wynn Bullock.
Wynn Bullock (b.18Apr1902 - d.16Nov1975) was an American photographer whose work is included in over 90 major museum collections
around the world. He received substantial critical acclaim during his lifetime, published numerous books and is mentioned in all the
standard histories of modern photography. [en.wikipedia.org:_Wynn_Bullock]

I had not heard from him but enjoyed his (early) work. The location was a little hard to find as it is a building within the University of
Arizona complex and when we located it we had to look hard for a place to park.

 

 

 

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Trail Dust Town: not quite what we expected: a very faux set up.

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Trail Dust Town has seen Tucson grow up around it since it was built in 1961. www.traildusttown.com

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Playing hide and seek

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
A wedding festivity in progress, almost looks like they were lining up for me!

A lot went wrong here in Tucson... By an adress from the internet I tried to locate Ritz Cameras in and near the Tucson Mall. But no such luck.
We went to a pancake house, by info from yelp, but arriving at 14:00 we found the kitchen had closed just then.
We arrived at the Botanical Gardens at 17:00, only to find it had closed at 16:00 (in Europe the warm countries close around mid-day and reopen when things cool down).
Missed opportunities and lost time made us cancel a visit to Saguaro NP and the Maverick (for dinner and live music). Perhaps I did plan a little much.
Well, one has to leave something to have a reason to go back for!

 

 

 

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
We went for a cold brew to the Cowpony bar; not far from the Trail Dust Town. A cool place.
Any bar in the US serving cold Guinness gets extra points from me!

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw

 

 

 

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
One from my bucketlist!
I have visited Tucson several times over the years, but never went for the flightseeing over this legendary boneyard!
The AMARG is adjacent to the Davis-Monthan Air Force Base and one can get groundtours from the nearby Pima Air and Space Museum.
But I went for a flight over this place (my report)

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
The flight, an hour long, continued over Tucson.
We see the Tucson Mall here, note the ample parking facilities!

Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
Crossing over to the landscape surrounding Tucson Metro is striking.


Pinal Airpark is a boneyard for civilian airplanes.
Some of these airliners leave here flying, refurbished for a new owner, others get scrapped.


Travel US Southwest 2017 - Ruud Leeuw
The Pima Air and Space Museum is not to be missed, a huge amount of aeroplanes: see my report

 


 

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Created: 02-Feb-2018
Updated: 03-Feb-2018