BELGIUM: ANTWERP & BRUGGE
«April 2025»


Photos © Ruud Leeuw


Brugge was a city on my list for many years to visit. This progressed with various options, Venice & Milan, but due to circumstance beyond our control they passed and remain options for another year. So with nice sunny weather forecasted a visit to Brugge became a viable option, with outbound a stop in Antwerp for the FoMu and on the returntrip a visit to an air museum in Brussels.
So 3 nights and 2 full days in Brugge became the plan and I hope you'll enjoy my report.


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To Brugge visit

 

For a first visit to the FoMu (FOto MUseum) we stopped in Antwerp
Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
I already have a few books on this enterprising woman, but could not resist a visit here.

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp

Elizabeth 'Lee' Miller, Lady Penrose (b.23April1907 – d.21July1977), was an American photographer and photojournalist.
Miller was a fashion model in New York City in the 1920s before going to Paris, becoming a fashion and fine-art photographer there.
During World War II, she was a war correspondent for Vogue, covering events such as the London Blitz, the liberation of Paris and the concentration camps at Buchenwald and Dachau.
Her reputation as an artist in her own right is due mostly to her son's discovery and promotion of her work as a fashion and war photographer.

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
From model to photographer..

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
Her head in a glass dome: she wasn't afraid to pose & explore for the macabre

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp

After leaving Man Ray and Paris in 1932, Miller returned to New York City.
She established a portrait and commercial photography studio (with US$10,000 worth of backing from Christian R. Holmes II and Cliff Smith) with her brother Erik (who had worked for the fashion photographer Toni von Horn) as her darkroom assistant.
In 1934, Miller abandoned her studio to marry the Egyptian businessman and engineer Aziz Eloui Bey, who had come to New York City to buy equipment for the Egyptian National Railways.
In Cairo, Miller took a photograph of the desert near Siwa that Magritte saw and used as inspiration for his 1938 painting Le Baiser. Miller also contributed an object to the Surrealist Objects and Poems exhibition at the London Gallery in 1934.
By 1937, Miller had grown bored with her life in Cairo. She returned to Paris and went to a party the day she arrived, where she reconciled with Man Ray, and met the British surrealist painter and curator Roland Penrose.

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
Illustrations of her, and Man Ray's, play with sculptures abstracts. This serie is my first with the new Canon G5X II.

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
Miller rediscovers the solarisation technique by accident...
After she left Egypt and her husband she reconciled with Man Ray in Paris.

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
Left: David E. Scherman by Lee Miller (dressed for war, London 1942)
Right: Lee Miller by David E. Scherman (Vogue Studio, London 1943)

Miller embarked on a new career in photojournalism as the official war photographer for Vogue, documenting what became known as the Blitz. Because the British Army would not let her accompany them, she managed to be accredited with the U.S. Army instead as a war correspondent for Condé Nast Publications from December 1942.
Miller's first article for British Vogue was on nurses at an army base in Oxford.

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
Miller tooks portraits of well-known women doing war work, including Margaret Bourke-Whiet (here)
as well as Martha Gellhorn. Lee Miller would follow in their footsteps.

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
A first and a second visit by Miller to wartime Normandy.
Miller teamed up with American photojournalist David E. Scherman ( a Life magazine correspondent) on many assignments, including the liberation of Paris, the Battle of Alsace, and the horrors of the Nazi concentration camps at Buchenwald and Dachau. Scherman's iconic photograph of Miller sitting in the bathtub in Adolf Hitler's private apartment in Munich, with
the dried mud of that morning's visit to Dachau on her boots deliberately dirtying Hitler's bathroom, was taken in the evening on 30 April 1945, coincidentally the same day that Hitler committed suicide... After posing for the bathtub photograph,
Miller took a bath in the tub, and then slept in Hitler's bed. She was also photographed in Eva Braun's bed.
en.wikipedia.org:_Lee_Miller]

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
Having documented the war and the German deathcamps, Miller developed PTSD. After the war she and her partner.
Roland Penrose bought a farm and changed her lifestyle. PTSD and subsequent traumas were not diagnosed then.
Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
Cooking, entertaining guests as well as compiling and publishing a cookbook did not entirely solved her WW2 traumas

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp

During this period, Miller photographed dying children in a Vienna hospital, peasant life in post-war Hungary, corpses of Nazi officers and their families, and finally, the execution of former Hungarian Prime Minister László Bárdossy.
After the war, she continued working for Vogue for another two years, covering fashion and celebrities...
At the war's end, Miller's work as a wartime photojournalist continued as she sent telegrams back to the British Vogue editor, Audrey Withers, urging her to publish photographs from the camps...
She did this following a CBS broadcast from Buchenwald by Edward R. Murrow, and Richard Dimbleby's BBC broadcast from inside Bergen-Belsen.
This was in consequence of people's disbelief at such atrocities, when these broadcasters urged photographers to do what they could to show the public what they saw.

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
It was good to see the museum houses a well stocked library
Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp

Lee Miller in Print at FoMu Antwerp
I appeared to be a day too early for the Marcel Veldman exhibition, alas.


Brugge / Bruges 2025
Entering Bruges through 'Ezelspoort' (afaik). There were more of these gates but too far away for us to explore on foot.

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Le Bois de Bruges hotel
Our room in Brugge's Le Bois de Bruges. Not soundproof from interior- and exterior noises, but it would have to
do for 3 nights. The location on 't Zand and the breakfast made up for the inconveniences. Three stars at best.

A first walkabout on a chilling evening
Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
The Steenstraat, one of two shopping highstreets leading away from 't Zand to the
center of town, past the St. Salvator's Cathedral (Dutch: Sint-Salvatorskathedraal).
Cathedral ie also known as the of the Saviour and St. Donat, and is the Roman Catholic
cathedral of Bruges, Belgium. This church was not originally built to be a cathedral;
it was granted this status in the 19th century. Since the 10th century St. Salvator was
a common parish church. ¬ en.wikipedia.org

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
In 1834, shortly after Belgium's independence in 1830, a new bishop was installed in Bruges and
St. Salvator's Church obtained the status of cathedral. However, the building's external image did not
resemble a cathedral. It was much smaller and less imposing than the nearby Church of Our Lady and had
to be adapted to its new role. Building a higher and more impressive tower was one of the viable options.
The roof of the cathedral collapsed in a fire in 1839. Robert Chantrell, an English architect, famous for
his neo-Gothic restorations of English churches, was asked to restore St. Salvator to its former glory.
At the same time, he was commissioned a project for a higher tower, in order to make it
taller than that of Church of Our Lady. ¬ en.wikipedia.org

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
It felt a little funny, being abroad but speaking the same language..
Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
The 'stepped façades' and quaint side streets are a major attraction

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
The Markt of Bruges (Dutch: Markt van Brugge) is the historic central square of Bruges, Belgium, and has been a
hub of commerce, politics, and daily life for nearly a thousand years! In the 11th century 'The Markt' emerged as a
trading center during Bruges’ rise as a major port in Northern Europe, part of the Hanseatic League.
It became the economic heart of the city, surrounded by merchant stalls, guild houses, and marketplaces for cloth,
fish, and grain. The square was strategically located near waterways linking Bruges to the North Sea.
On the right, out of this photo, the 'Belfort' (Belfry) dominates the square.

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
There are plenty parking garages for bicycles around town

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
A view of the side of the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk (EN: Church of Our Lady) from the Mariastraat in the center of
Bruges, Belgium. Taken from the Mariastraat in the historic center of this medieval city.
Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
An upward glance of the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk, displaying some of its impressive architecture.

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
Bruges is sometimes nicknamed 'Venice of the North' for its many canals

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
More stepped façades. We got on board here for a nice tour through the canals.

 

I was soon bored by the souvenir shops, the cobble stoned streets and the façades: aimed my camera at other stuff!
Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
On April 26th the Dutch celebrated their King's anniversary and for once
I escaped the orange markets and madness ☺

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
Resisted the marzepain and Belgian chocolates..
Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
More chocolate

 

More walkabout
Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
On our walkabout we got a little lost and ended up beyond 't Zand nearer to the
Sweden Gate, a less travelled area by tourists.
Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
A class is getting cycling lessons here on the huge market square. Underground is a modern parking both for
cars as well as bicycles. The Dutch could take an example here of the Belgians for parking the bicycles.

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
'T Santpoortje, restaurant on 't Zand (EN: The Sand) with a remarkable sign/mural on the side.

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
"Is This The Burger Life Or Is This Just Fantasy"

 


Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
On the first full day in Brugge the sun came out and decided to renew my focus on medieval façades somewhat

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
Seems there once was a chimney here..

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
Hats of all sorts, here a western style...

..while the drivers wear the traditional 'straw boater'!
Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
For the standard horse drawn carriage tour, one must wait in line at the Carriage Station (Markt) or on Wednesday
morning before noon on the Burg. The same principle used with taxi cabs is also applied: first-come, first served.
There was no line upon our visit but at times, there may be a waiting time depending on weather conditions, traffic and
demand. Payment must be made directly to each carriage driver. No credit cards are accepted or invoices given on the spot.
The price set by the city of Bruges is of € 70/half hour, per carriage (max. 5 people). A tip to driver and/or horse
is appreciated! Donna was the name of our horse ☺

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
Keep your distance

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
We took a ride too, a pleasant endeavour saving our painful feet.

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
You may have concluded by now I like to sneek up on people taking pictures ☺

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
This swan obvious did not need the available privacy and quite enjoyed the attention

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
'Markt' and youngsters lounging in the warming sun

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
A rather mysterious statue in front of the 'Stadsschouwburg' (Email)

 

 

More walkabout around town
Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
This struck me as funny..

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
'Burg', another major square not far from 'Markt', on our way the 'Vismarkt'.

Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
I quote: "The Market Square is the heart of Bruges, but the Burg Square is its soul. For centuries this has been the
centre of power in the city, and Bruges' city administration still occupies the 14th century Gothic Town Hall.
This grand, majestic square is lined with monumental landmark buildings."
Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw

Walking towards 'Vismarkt'
Brugge, april 2025 (c)Ruud Leeuw
For my #OnReading series

 

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Created: 28-Apr-2025 | Updated: 05-Mei-2025