Short trip into Germany, Feb.2023

For some time I had the Am Leitz Park @Wetzlar on my 'bucketlist' and when I noticed an exhibition in Leica's LFI magazine of a restrospective on Horst H. Baumann, in Mannheim, I decided the time had come.
Frustrations on German rude road behaviour on the autobahn, during exhibitions, in hotels and a change in the weather made us decide to cut this 5-day trip down to 3 days. Mixed blessings!

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On the road; auf Deutsch: Unterwegs!
Altena, Germany
Altena Castle.

Altena Castle (German: Burg Altena) is a medieval hill castle in the town of Altena in North Rhine-Westphalia. Built on a spur of Klusenberg hill, the castle lies near the Lenne in the Märkischer Kreis.
The castle was erected by the early Counts of Berg in the early 12th century.

Supposedly, the castle was built by the brothers Adolf and Everhard von Berg around the year 1108 after Henry V granted them land in Sauerland for their loyal services. On Wulfseck Mountain they built their castle, which they named Wulfeshagen, later Altena.
After the acquisition of the parish land of Mark near the city of Hamm in 1198, the counts of Altena took Mark Castle as their primary residence and called themselves the Counts of the Mark. They continued to only occasionally inhabit Altena Castle and from 1392 onward it was only used as a residence for the county bailiff (Amtmann). Count Engelbert III of the Mark gave the small settlement at the base of the mountain the rights of liberty (such as self-governance). In 1455 the castle burned down and was only re-erected partially.
In Brandenburg-Prussian times the castle became a garrison and was sold to the town of Altena in 1771. In the following years an almshouse and a workhouse was established there. This existed until 1840.
From 1766 to 1811 there existed a criminal court and prison in the castle.

Due to the 300th anniversary of the membership of the County of Mark to Brandenburg-Prussia in 1909 plans for a reconstruction of the castle began. In 1914 this was completed, apart from the outer bailey and lower gatehouse.
In 1914, Richard Schirrmann established the world's first youth hostel within the castle, which is still in use today (Jugendherberge Burg Altena). The original rooms are a museum today.
Today the castle is symbol of the town of Altena and a tourist attraction.
During the first weekend of August a yearly Medieval Festival takes place in the castle and town.

en.wikipedia.org:_Altena_Castle
List of castles in North Rhine-Westphalia

Day One was also the start of a series of frustrations: autobahn gesperrt! It made us 1+ hour later at Wetzlar,
though part of the detour offered nice surprises on the local roads, such as this castle at Altena.

Getting closer to one of my prime my objectives this trip..
Wetzlar, Germany
Am Leitz Park: Leica Welt!

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar. A bit 'brutal' in architectural style.
After a 'coffee & cake'-break we went straight for the museum, camera- & gift shop.

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Up the stairs for the history of Leitz, Leica, Messrs Barnack and Leitz plus early photo equipment.

One can visit the Leica Gallery and the Ernst Leitz Museum daily from 10 am to 6 pm.
Opening hours on the website https://leica-welt.com/en/service
Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Before cameras there were microscopes and lenses. When Mr Barnack found his astma made it for him problematic
to carry the large and heavy plate cameras, so he experimented with a small photo camera that held 35mm film.
And, as they say, the rest is history!

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Leica camera, the tool of many iconic photographers.

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
I remember the years (decades!) when I used to print my own B&W photos. Magic!

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
A visit by a sizeable group from Asia is being documented on photo and video.

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
House of mirrors.

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
These photos were taken by my Leica Q2 Monochrome.

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Ur-Leica (replica)

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Oskar Barnack and timeline

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Ernst Leitz II in New York, using that Ur-Leica. Ernst Leitz II was one of 3 brothers taking over the Leitz
firm and restructuring it. Ernst Leitz III was next in line.

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)

We go to the Oskar Barnack 2022 price winner and the runners up; great exhibition!
Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
The LOBA 2022 exhibition was displayed at the Ernst Leitz Museum for the last day on 22Feb23.

And the 2022 winner is: Kiana Hayeri!

Kiana Hayeri, winner Oskar Barnack Award 2022

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
I only knew the name of Lynsey Addario, for the book she wrote on her start in (war)photography.

Lynsey Addario – Women on the Frontline of Climate Change.
Flooding, droughts, forest fires: in her series, American photojournalist Lynsey Addario captures the impact of climate change on daily life.
Her camera focuses on women, from four different regions around the world, who fight against environmental destruction. With rich imagery, bold colours and accentuated sharpness, her photographs aim to inspire the viewer to be more aware of the need to care for the environment. ¬www.leica-oskar-barnack-award.com/

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Winners since 1980

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Kiana Hayeri documenting Afghanistan being thrown back into the Middle Ages by the Taliban.

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Fantastic photography among the runners up.

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
The Leica Shop. I held two Q2 Special Editions in my hand but much beyond my budget at the moment! So
I went for a few books! One was about the Leica Akedemie, truly inspirational.

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Lenny Kravitz designed 'The Drifter', another special edition for Leica cameras.

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
To the next building, The Leica Gallery (which also includes a museum)

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Iconic photographs by famous photographers

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Historic Leica cameras on display, including the Ur-Leica and other early variants.

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
The exhibition of work by Frank Horvath, 'Please Don't Smile', was less to my liking: mostly models and celebrities.
Unfortunately I was unable to buy LFI magazine back issues (was searching for 2020 & 2021 editions).

Am Leitz Park (Leica), Wetzlar (Germany)
Visit over!

Wetzlar sweets Sweet memories!

SHORT WALKABOUT IN WETZLAR
Wetzlar, Germany
We had a little trouble parking our car but found a carpark along the river Lahn.

Wetzlar, Germany

Wetzlar, Germany
'Den Wetzlarder Opfern Des Nationalsozialismus'

Wetzlar, Germany
Can you see me..?

Wetzlar, Germany
Wetzlarer Dom

Wetzlar, Germany

Wetzlar, Germany 'Frieden hat viele Namen' + 'Don't Forget IRAN'

Wetzlar, Germany
Entering the historic center at the church, Domplatz Wetzlar.

Wetzlar, Germany

Wetzlar, Germany
Repairs in progress

Wetzlar, Germany

Wetzlar, Germany
These photos were made with my Panasonic FZ1000 II (conversion to B&W by Silver Efex Pro 2 in PS)

Wetzlar, Germany

'Wetzlar is located in the state of Hesse, just 51km north of Frankfurt and is situated on the river Lahn.
The city is famous for its Historic Old Town and its Catholic-Protestand shared Cathedral St. Mary.
The Old Town is mostly as it was in the late 18th century, preserved and extensively restored. Worth mentioning are the Butter Market, the Fish Market, the Iron Market and the Grain Market.
The Wetzlar Cathedral, built in 1230 and still unfinished, combines Romanesque, gothic and baroque architecture. It is used by both Roman Catholics and Protestants respectively.
In Wetzlar you’ll find the largest European public library specializing in fantastic literature worldwide.'
Obviously we did not manage to ge a complete picture of this town; next time!

Check in @Michel Hotel (MH Wetzlar)

Mixed blessings here. Pleasure to find a free parking here. But reception first sent us the the 6th floor, to a room not according to my reservation. We then got a room on the ground floor; the door did not isolate noise from people walking & talking outside our room. The reception forget us to tell the wifi code.
The room did have a bath but not the right plug (old fashioned!). A 3rd revisit to reception cured this. It had been a long day.
We were told that there was a restaurant in the hotel, which we liked; we did not feel like stepping into the car again. But upon entering the restaurant we were told that we were no welcome: booked groups only! We could eat in the bar, which provided a satisfying meal from a small menu and against a low price. The bar was deserted except for us, later on another couple sat down for cocktails. No after-dinner coffees as the machine was broken.
We were told that in March a new owner would take over: it was noticable.
If I would stay here again it would be for the superb breakfast buffet!

HORST H. BAUMANN EXHIBITION - @MANNHEIM
Mannheim for photo exhibitions
Toulonplatz @Mannheim. Both museums I intended to visit were located here.

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim
In Peter & Traudl Engelhornhaus the retrospective exhibition of Horst H. Baumann, photographer.

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim

An excellent display of works by Düsseldorf photographer Horst H. Baumann (1934-2019).
Curator Hans-Michael Koetzle has selected hundreds of pieces from the photographer's estate, presenting his multi-layered oeuvre in all its breadth for the first time.

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim
Some important dates for Herr H. Baumann

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim

Baumann defined himself as a 'light artist', as he considered photography, multi-vision and light art simply as different ways to express the medium of light.
Among his most important laser sculptures – which he began creating in the 1970s – is the Laserscape, which first appeared as a permanent laser sculpture in 1977, on the occasion of documenta 6 in Kassel. To this day, it remains a landmark of the city.
Before dedicating himself to laser art, however, Baumann had already enjoyed rapid success as a photographer: he published his first pictures in his early 1920s; worked in advertising; and, as of 1959, his photo series featured regularly in the legendary magazine twen. Last but not least, when it came to colour photography, he was way ahead of his time.

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim

The Ruhr district and the daily lives of people were a fixed feature of Baumann's black and white images, when he started out.
Empathic and with a deep interest in social issues, he found his visual language early on. Even when dealing with seemingly banal subjects, Baumann knew how to shape his photography, through the targeted use of partial sharpness, bold angles and cropping, dynamic perspectives, and the interplay between fore and background. As a result, his work was frequently both surprising and irritating, enabling him to distinguish himself from the more journalistic approach of his contemporaries.

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim
Yes, another user of Leica cameras!

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim
Visit USA, among the Klu-Klux-Klan (KKK)

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim
"Blonder Sex-Tiger Ursula Andress". Such a title would probably be frowned upon these days!

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim
'Apropos Visionär - Der Fotograf - Horst H. Baumann'
Another frustration: the catalogue was sold out, awaiting redeliveries.

Horst H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim

Horst. H. Baumann exhibition @Mannheim
The LFI edition on the left, of 01-2023, is what brought me to this exhibition.

In another hall, next door, Baumann's retrospective continued: his work in colour.
Horst H. Bauman, Retrospective (@Mannheim 2023) 'The magic of colour photography'

Baumann also recognised the artistic challenges represented by the newly emerging colour photography. His understanding was very much in the spirit of 'New Color Photography', already decades before the category was established in the USA. He not only photographed in colour; his use of it as a stylistic means of expression was spectacular. His best known pictures were the Formula 1 shots he took in the sixties.

Horst H. Bauman, Retrospective (@Mannheim 2023)

Horst H. Bauman, Retrospective (@Mannheim 2023)
Quite a novel way of displaying (Baumann's) photos.

Horst H. Bauman, Retrospective (@Mannheim 2023)

Horst H. Bauman, Retrospective (@Mannheim 2023)
His work in colour illustrated his passion for racing cars here.

And yet another frustration, here in Manheim (an unattractive city with a lot of industry and building):
Mannheim
I was unable to visit the photo exhibition 'Die Welt am Oberrhein' for the long line of people waiting to buy
tickets for the other exhibition, 'Die Normannen', sold at the same cashier. Tried twice, then gave up.
Both exhibitions had only German texts, something I dislike too, the lack of international consideration.

Warhammer @Mannheim
We walked a short while into the Kunststrasse, looking for refreshments. Then..,
blast from the past (25+ years ago) a Warhammer shop! Allegedly still popular (here).

Urban art @Mannheim
You may enjoy my review of Streetart in Germany by Timo Schaal on MyBlog_2025q1 Fine book!

'Boy on a swing'. Mural in Mannheim, taken on our way to the centre of Mannheim. Exact location unknown.
Mural, boy on a swing
Taken from the car while waiting for a traffic light. EMAIL
Not among www.stadt-wand-kunst.de/murals/

SPEYER SEA-LIFE

Sea Life @Speyer

Sea Life @Speyer
I love visiting aquariums all over the world!

Sea Life @Speyer

Sea Life @Speyer
Did you notice the two 'standing up fishes' on the lower left of the photo?! They're called Razor Fish.

Sea Life @Speyer

Sea_Life @Speyer
Every effort has been made to maximize the experience (for kids & adults alike)!

Sea_Life @Speyer

Sea_Life @Speyer
The sharks swam too fast for a half decent shot, but the people make this photo a success for me (iPhone 11).

Sea Life @Speyer
They did have sharks (though not the size above!).
All in all a very nice visit!

SPEYER DOM
Speyer
This is walking distance from the aquarium

Speyer

Speyer Dom

Speyer Dom
Built to impress!

Speyer Dom

Speyer Dom
'Heidentürmchen'

Speyer Dom

Speyer Dom
The sign reads: ÖLBERG. Errichtet 1505-1512 von Nikolaus Elser aus Mainz
und Hans Seyfer aus Heilbronn mittelpunkt des ehemaligen Domkreuzganges.
(EN: 'Built 1505-1512 by Nikolaus Elser Mainz and Hans Seyfer from Heilbronn
are the centre of the former cathedral cloister'.)

Dom @Speyer

Speyer Dom

Speyer Dom
My eye fell on this abstract pattern. Don't ever forget to look down too!

Speyer Dom

Speyer Dom
Essentially German, I thought.

Hotel Regina @Ludwigshafen

Hotel Regina in Bismarckstraße, Ludwigshafen am Rhein. We had booked through Booking.com here for 2 nights, but that same afternoon we decided to cut it down to one. First impressions: one has to struggle up one flight of stairs with the luggage (invalid elevator available) to where the reception is. An hour into our stay in the reasonable room (a small elevator had brought us up to the 3rd floor) next door 2 young men entered and their conversation was easily heard, obviously the walls were far from soundproof. There and then I booked another stay for the 2nd night, knowing I wouldn't get full refund through Booking.com.
The host was very friendly, she warned the young men which helped and provided an excellent breakfast in the morning. She did all she could to make our stay pleasant, maybe I overreacted but I did not like the fee (€20) for overnight parking in a nearby parking garage either.

Always a pleasant surprise to find coffee & tea in the hotelroom; no such luck in Wetzlar (they had a bar but
the machine wasn't working..). The nearby Alex restaurant is a good place for food & drinks.

HEIDELBERG & Schloss

Miniature plan of Heidelberg

Visit to Heidelberg, DE
No doubt an excellent bookshop, it is almost 'too much of a good thing'. Apparently everything in German..?

Visit to Heidelberg, DE
View from the castle, access by footpath but also by cable tram!
Heidelberg, view from high up!

HEIDELBERG CASTLE

Heidelberg castle
Tower, far left from the below described 'Englischer Bau'.

Heidelberg castle
'Built after 1612 under Elector Friedrich V (1610-9) and his wife, the English Princess Elisabeth Stuart,
as the last castle building. The magnificent living space is situated in the top floor, the adjacent floor
of the 'Dicken Turm' altered into a dining room. ¬Staatliche und Gärten, Baden-Württemberg.

The rectangular frameworks on the left are the above described 'Englischer Bau'.
Visit to Heidelberg, DE

Visit to Heidelberg, DE
Schloss Heidelberg

Heidelberg Castle (German: Heidelberger Schloss) is a ruin in Germany and landmark of Heidelberg. The castle ruins are among the most important Renaissance structures north of the Alps.

The castle has only been partially rebuilt since its demolition in the 17th and 18th centuries. It is located 80 metres (260 ft) up the northern part of the Königstuhl hillside, and thereby dominates the view of the old downtown. It is served by an intermediate station on the Heidelberger Bergbahn funicular railway that runs from Heidelberg's Kornmarkt to the summit of the Königstuhl.

The earliest castle structure was built before 1214 and later expanded into two castles circa 1294; however, in 1537, a lightning bolt destroyed the upper castle. The present structures had been expanded by 1650, before damage by later wars and fires.
In 1764, another lightning bolt caused a fire which destroyed some rebuilt sections.
[¬ en.wikipedia.org:_Heidelberg_Castle]

Heidelberg Castle
Detail of the monumental façade

My 'streetphotography instincts' awakened!

Heidelberg castle
Delightful details

Heidelberg was first mentioned in 1196 as "Heidelberch".
In 1155 Conrad of Hohenstaufen was made the Count Palatine by his half-brother Frederick Barbarossa, and the region became known as the Electoral Palatinate.
The claim that Conrad's main residence was on the Schlossberg (Castle Hill), known as the Jettenbühl, cannot be substantiated.
The name 'Jettenbühl' comes from the soothsayer Jetta, who was said to have lived there. She is also associated with Wolfsbrunnen (Wolf's Spring) and the Heidenloch (Heathens' Well).
The first mention of a castle in Heidelberg (Latin: "castrum in Heidelberg cum burgo ipsius castri") is in 1214, when Louis I, Duke of Bavaria of the House of Wittelsbach, received it from Hohenstaufen Emperor Friedrich II. The last mention of a single castle is in 1294. In another document from 1303, two castles are mentioned for the first time. [¬ en.wikipedia.org:_Heidelberg_Castle]

Heidelberg castle
Covered fresh water spring, reads: 'Newly set and covered spring under Elector Karl Philipp (1716-42).
For many years, drinking water was brought daily from here to the court in Mannheim with horsedrawn vehicles.'

Heidelberg castle

Heidelberg castle
Many if not most of all texts were in German; I read English much easier, but then we have Wikipedia!

'In 1619, Frederick V, then a young man, seized the crown of the kings of Bohemia, against the will of the emperor, and in 1687, Philip William, Count Palatine, by then an old man, assumes the title of prince-elector, against the will of the king of France.
This was to cause Heidelberg battles and never-ending tribuluations, the Thirty Years War, Gustav Adolfs Ruhmesblatt and finally the War of the Grand Alliance, the Turennes mission.
All of these terrible events have blighted the castle.
Three emperors, Louis the Bavarian, Adolf of Nassau, and Leopold of Austria, have laid siege to it; Pio II condemned it; Louis XIV wreaked havoc on it.'
[¬ en.wikipedia.org:_Heidelberg_Castle]

Heidelberg castle

Heidelberg castle
Collapsed tower

Pamphlet on the Destruction of the Castle, 1693.
After the death of Charles II, Elector Palatine, the last in line of the House of Palatinate-Simmern, Louis XIV of France demanded the surrender of the allodial title in favor of the Duchess of Orléans, Elizabeth Charlotte, Princess Palatine who he claimed was the rightful heir to the Simmern lands.
On 29 September 1688, the French troops marched into the Palatinate of the Rhine and on 24 October moved into Heidelberg, which had been deserted by Philipp Wilhelm, the new Elector Palatine from the line of Palatinate-Neuburg.
At war against the allied European powers, France's war council decided to destroy all fortifications and to lay waste to the Palatinate (Brûlez le Palatinat!), in order to prevent an enemy attack from this area. As the French withdrew from the castle on 02Mar 1689, they set fire to it and blew the front off the Fat Tower...
Portions of the town were also burned, but the mercy of a French general, René de Froulay de Tessé, who told the townspeople to set small fires in their homes to create smoke and the illusion of widespread burning, prevented wider destruction.
[¬ en.wikipedia.org:_Heidelberg_Castle]

Heidelberg castle

Above: 'Garden of the Palatinate'. The garden - based on Salomon de Cau's design, which was published as an engraving in 1620 - was never completed. Even so, the terraced gardens with its Mannerists style was
a popular attraction throughout the 1600s.
It was re-modelled multiple times in the centuries that followed.

Bottom picture: 'Landscape Garden'.
During the Romantic period, the Palace Garden was completely redesigned (for university teachings purposes), and expanded to create a landscape garden. The design by Johann Metzeger from 1826 depicts the seconds major phase in the garden's development.

Heidelberg castle

Heidelberg castle
Gate ('Tor') erected to honour English Princess Elisabeth Stuart.

Heidelberg castle

After his defeat at the Battle of White Mountain on 08Nov1620, Frederick V was on the run as an outlaw and had to release his troops prematurely, leaving the Palatinate undefended against General Tilly, the supreme commander of the Imperial and Holy Roman Empire's troops.
On 26Aug1622, Tilly commenced his attack on Heidelberg, taking the town on 16Sep1622, and the castle a few days later.
When the Swedes captured Heidelberg on 05May1633 and opened fire on the castle from the Königstuhl hill behind it, Tilly handed over the castle. The following year, the emperor's troops tried to recapture the castle, but it was not until July 1635 that they succeeded.
It remained in their possession until the Peace of Westphalia ending the Thirty Years War was signed.

The new ruler, Charles Louis (Karl Ludwig) and his family did not move into the ruined castle until 07Oct1649.
[¬ en.wikipedia.org:_Heidelberg_Castle]

Heidelberg castle

Heidelberg castle
Spooky trees

Heidelberg castle

End of this report
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Created 26-Feb-2023 | Completed 08-Mar-2023 | Updated 10-Mar-2023

GERMANY «22-25February23»

TRAVELOGUE + STREETPHOTOGRAPHY

GERMANY
«22-25February23»

TRAVELOGUE
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