USA and Canada, 1986

PAGE ONE | PAGE TWO

Another trek to the US, this time including a part of Canada: the PACIFIC NORTHWEST!

With past experience (much to see, great distances) in mind, this time I invested even more time in preparation.
An evaluation was made between the rental of a motorhome and a car; costs of a rental car and staying in hotels proved to be more cost efficient. But, not to forego the pleasure of camping, we decided to bring a small tent too.
The result of all this planning (done on a 'word-processor', not quite a computer yet, for the first time) resulted in a demanding itinerary, with a tight schedule and the end saw 5.500 kms been driven by us in 18 days, from mid-august until first week of september.

A Martinair DC-10 brought us in 09hrs15 (4hr45 delay) from Amsterdam to Seattle,WA and the rental car (Chrysler Reliant SE , model 1986) was picked up with Ajax: the show was on the road!

From the air, in anticipation of another fine adventure
USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw


After our arrival at Seattle's Sea-Tac airport we noticed it was 13:00 local time (though nine hours later in Amsterdam), and what does one do at that time ? Lunch, that's right !
So after we collected the car we went straight to BurgerKing, for a juicy whopper....
We'd not had one in years (McDonalds and BurgerKing did not have their franchise started in the Netherlands then)
and felt satisfied getting reacquainted. Just as good as in 1983.
The weather was excellent: a balmy 25 C (76 F ). We decided to clear the city limits for the Snoqualmie National Forest, where we pitched our tent at the Silver Springs Campground.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Although we hadn't yet completed our camping gear (we didn't even bring matches), we decided to pitch our tent
at this nice campsite (which was filling up fast), next to a fast flowing river. Back to Nature..!

When we arrived at Silver Springs Campground, we found that the Mobil Camping Guide had us wrongly informed: there was no store! Having left the city in a hurry, and only having brought a tent and sleeping bags, we found ourselves without food, drinks, matches for a woodfire, no cups for water to hold....
Camp fee was only US$6,-
Well, since it was 20:00 by the time we were done with our tent, meaning 05:00 for our body clocks, we decided to call it a day and went to sleep. Sure glad we had eaten those big hamburgers earlier that afternoon !

It sure felt nice to be here, even better after we broke camp and went for a nice breakfast!
USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Our first 'American breakfast and we sure were hungry & cold!

Out on the road
USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Mount Rainier may look cold but the sunshine brought warmth.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Mount Rainier stands as an icon in the Washington landscape. An active volcano, Mount Rainier is the most glaciated peak in the contiguous U.S.A., spawning five major rivers. Subalpine wildflower meadows ring the icy volcano while ancient forest cloaks Mount Rainier’s lower slopes.
www.nps.gov/mora/

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Hitting the trails, see if we can make it to the snow USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Macho on the snow

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
On a clear day one can see forever!

Little did we suspect that the August nights could be just as cold... We found our sleeping bags required us getting dressed again to conquer the shivering during the night. We also noticed how pitchdark it could be between all the gigantic trees and of course we had not thought of bringing a flashlight with us.
Hungry and cold, we had out first US breakfast with Crystal Mountain Sky Resort and that brought us back on our feet.
We had a good hike at Mt. Rainier (a volcano covered with glaciers), the trail not being too hard on us. I took lots of photos and we took our time, still feeling a bit hungover from the jetlag and the uneasy night. We commented how things would have been different had we brought our son, aged 2 almost, with us.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
On a coffee break, Ada guarding my camera gear.

On this trip I still had my Hasselblad, which proved to be too ambitous for this photo amateur (I could not afford
a single item except the camera, lens and filmcassette). I also had a Nikon FM-2 and an Olympus OM-1 with me. Photography on these vacations has always been important for me, taking my time with a tripod and shooting many films.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Mount Rainier National Park visitor center

After the hike we drove east, to Richland, to visit a friend we had met on the Kenya trip (1985).
Along the way we bought some of the items we had found lacking in our campinggear.
USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Jean Callen @Richland, we enjoyed her kind hospitality. A happy spirit, R.I.P.



From Richland, WA we drove through northeast of Oregon and entered Idaho by way of Highway 84.
It was a first for us to notice that large stores were open on Sundays.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
We didn't get any rain during our dive through the state of Oregon, though showers and lightning passed nearby.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Old Fort Boise

The Old West comes alive at Parma’s Old Fort Boise Replica and Museum.
Constructed by the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1834 as competition for nearby Fort Hall, Old Fort Boise became an important supply post along the Oregon Trail.
The fort was abandoned, however, in 1854 after severe flooding and increased skirmishes with area Native Americans.
In 1863, a new Fort Boise was constructed in present day Boise, but a replica of the first fort can still be found near the original site. [¬ VisitIdaho.org/things-to-do/museums-exhibits/fort-boise-replica/]

We pitched our tent on a nice grassy field, only to discover later the wet high grass was a hot bed for mosquitos!
USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
We slept on a mosquito-ridden campsite near Old Fort Boise and had breakfast in a cow-town named Caldwell.
We enjoyed the cattlefolks, their conversation and the breakfast was big enough for four!
We did not care much for Boise ("Noisy Boisy"), as I had my mind set to visit some ghost towns.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Caldwell where we enjoyed a big breakfast at the Cattlemen's Café.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Water works

Old Fort Boise
More's Creek, named for J. Marion More, leader of the party of miners who founded Idaho City, 07Oct1862.


Idaho City! During the goldrush it was the largest town in Idaho Territory, in 1860 it had a population of 40.000

We drove on to Idaho City, which was everything we had hoped for: not quite a ghost town, but hot and dusty every breath a "frontier town". No faking here.
In the bar we witnessed a girl and her boyfriend talking to the bartender; the girl had escaped Idaho City a few years ago, to live in Montana and was ecstatic to be on her way to California: Hollywood here she come ! The bartender did not appear to be much impressed.


USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Idaho World, maybe a bit presumptious..? But look at that date: Est. 1863!


We visited Placerville, Centerville and Pioneerville: true ghost towns. Not as nice as Idaho City, where we enjoyed historic dwellings such as Idaho World, established in 1863, during the goldrush.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Boot Hill

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
From here we headed for Sawtooth National Park.

In 2014 we revisited Idaho City again! Click HERE..

 

Sawtooth National Park allowed for a very scenic drive and reminded us of the Clint Eastwood movie 'Pale Rider',
which was filmed here.
USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
There were no short hiking trails here (afaik), so we just enjoyed the scenic route (c.400kms / 250mls).
Since 1986 was way before online research I carried many guide books with me and we visited the visitor
centers, but a visitor center wasn't to be found here. Anyway the scenic drive was rewarding enough in itself.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

We stopped briefly in Stanley, but found hiking impossible due lack of time in our pressing schedule (we were already a day late). We continued to Craters of the Moon, where we arrived by the end of the day.


USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve is a U.S. national monument and national preserve in the Snake River Plain in central Idaho.
It is along US 20 (concurrent with US 93 and US 26), between the small towns of Arco and Carey, at an average elevation of 5,900 feet (1,800 m) above sea level.
The Monument was established on 02May1924.
In November 2000, a presidential proclamation by President Clinton greatly expanded the Monument area.
The 410,000-acre National Park Service portions of the expanded Monument were designated as Craters of the Moon National Preserve in August 2002.
It spreads across Blaine, Butte, Lincoln, Minidoka, and Power counties. The area is managed cooperatively by the National Park Service and the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).
en.wikipedia.org:_Craters_of_the_Moon_National_Monument_and_Preserve]

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

The Monument and Preserve encompass 3 major lava fields and about 400 square miles (1.000 km2) of sagebrush steppe grasslands to cover a total area of 1.117 square miles (2.893 km2).
The Monument alone covers 343.000 acres (139,000 ha).
All 3 lava fields lie along the Great Rift of Idaho, with some of the best examples of open rift cracks in the world, including the deepest known on Earth at 800 feet (240 m).

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
The dark brown and black scenery sucked up the late afternoon light. The lack of plant growth is stunning.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
In 2014 we visited this area again (including Craters of the Moon), see my page USA 2014 Northwest (4)

After a good night's rest in Arco's "Lazy-A-Motel" (recovering from the cold nights camping) and a local breakfast, we drove through the enchanted Targhee National Forest, heading for the Teton Mountains.
The weather was gloomy and we enjoyed a "thin 'crispy" pizza in Jackson, while the rain started to come down.
We tried to get a cabin in Grand Teton NP, but they were all booked or taken. We pitched our tent at Colter Bay Campground instead. Campgrounds filling up early in the day made us decide to stay 2 night on this campground and only 1 night in Yellowstone NP.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
The next day we continued through the Targhee Nat'l Forest, soon we looked onto the Teton Mountain Range

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
I had some difficulty adjusting to the speed limits here and the slow way of driving of other traffic.
Everybody seemed to travel in slow-motion, very different from European traffic. We needed some adjusting
for the distances I had expected to complete every day !
But fair is fair, driving 80-90 miles an hour through this kind of scenery would be a waste.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
The road goes on forever...

Camping here is very different from what we knew from Europe. For one thing there is a lot more space per site
and very often a fire pitch. We still had to get an axe but we managed a fire with wood we found around the tent or what was left behind by previous campers. For paper we used toilet paper and we soon had a good fire going.

Preparing a meal at Colter Bay Campground. No internet, no advance bookings...

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw Campgrounds in the US were a revelation to us: so much space, distance to other campers, freedom of movement, barbecue pit on every site, often a picnic table.... wow!
While Ada took care of making a good fire going, I had time to take few pictures of our impressive surroundings.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud LeeuwView over Jackson Lake, at first light in the morning. I needed my tripod to make this photo. It sure was cold too..


We spent a full day doing various small hikes, getting up early. That is how we got to see the moose and its young.
USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Getting up early was no problem, because we still felt cold during the night. We walked trails at Oxbow Bend,
Emma Matilda Lake and Jenny Lake ('Hidden Falls').
USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Except for the moose, we also encountered a snake (trying to get warm in the sun, just like us).

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
The weather had surprised us by treating us on plenty of sunshine, only during the evening the rain returned.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Lookout Rock, elevation 6667ft - Emma Matilda Lake

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Rugged scenery

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Long before the term 'fat shaming' was coined. We were amazed by the common obesity among the yanks.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
White water @Hidden Falls

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Filming the amazing scenery for parents and friends

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Back in the day I still had the energy to do some rock climbing

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Calmer water and log blockades

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Leigh Lake and the Grand Tetons Mountain Range in the background

The mountainrange is quite unique here in the USA, resembling the Alps in Europe I would say.The mountains rise up from the prairie and reach a height of over 4.000 meters. The fact that there aren't any foothills to speak off, makes the effect even more dramatic.
Everywhere you go you get warned about the bears. We felt quite uneasy walking the quiet trail. The Ranger had told us of people reciting poems aloud or people singing: I am no good at poems and me singing would be an act of cruelty (so I am told).... so we just kept talking !
The scenery is quite breathtaking and this park deserves better than a mere 2nd place next to Yellowstone NP.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
And I didn't even get my feet wet!


Next stop was Yellowstone National Park. The morning started with some poor weather.. But fortunately we were able to book a cabin ("Frontier Lodge") at Canyon Village.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
I had hoped to see those bison, but wasn't quite prepared to see an entire herd for they have a large area to roam.

After some pie and coffee we were ready to face the weather and explore Mother Nature's wonders in this park.
We went to the geysers and admired Old Faithful, sniffed at the penetrating sulphur smell and in spite of the bad weather I kept working the camera, getting some moody shots on film.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Geysers, hot springs, fumeroles, the earth is cooking everywhere in this park ! Some 10.000 thermal features have
been counted in this park. Magma (molten rock) sits only 3-5 miles below the surface, providing the heat for all this spectacle. Fortunately, the next day brought exceptionally good weather.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Weather warning: traffic hindered by rising fog!

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
It is easy to underestimate the distances in this park, but there is plenty to
see and enjoy in the varying landscape.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Volcanic activity close to the surface

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Sulphur fumeroles throwing up a stink

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
The earth crust can't carry a person's weight and these boardwalks certainly bring you closer to where the action is.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
The heat felt great on a person's face on this damp day.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
I always liked dead trees in my photos, plenty of them here..

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Old Faithful doing its magic. Note how small the people are compared to this geyser!
There are 6 large geysers (a.o. Old Faithful, Castle, Beehive).

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

 


USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
The day started off very well: a bison up close and with much better weather.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
This day started very well, we enjoyed the warmth of the sun

Yellowstone NP is a very large park and one can easily spend days here. It is the largest National Park of the US, outside Alaska, as well as the oldest.
Our time was limited, but we had to see the "Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone". The day had started with a thick fog, but the sun burned it away rapidly.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
The yellowish color of the rock has been responsible for the name giving of this park.


The sun had warmed the day considerably and hiking became a pleasant affair again.
Boy, was I younger then... The waist grew considerably too over the years ☺

The North Rim of this canyon had a very quiet trail and while it followed the rim it also went through a wooded area and was quite cool. We had decided to stay a second night in the park and felt more relaxed with our time after that decision. The photo was taken from 'Red Rock Point'

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
In Europe the RV's and camper vans were rarer than in the US. At the time of this update, 2024, that has changed!

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Fast flowing water has erosion doing sculpting work on the landscape

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
We encountered a bear, a little away from the road. Rangers were needed to direct traffic, everybody
wanted to have a photo of this small bear, away in the distance.
USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Scanning these photos (in actuality, colour negatives) in Jan.2024, I could crop the photograph and bring it closer.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Put the camera on my tripod and made a time exposure

Yellowstone National Park is a national park located largely in the northwest corner of Wyoming and extending into Montana and Idaho.
It was established by the 42nd U.S. Congress with the Yellowstone National Park Protection Act and signed into law by President Ulysses S. Grant on 01Mar1872.
Yellowstone was the first national park in the U.S. and is also widely held to be the first national park in the world.
The park is known for its wildlife and its many geothermal features, especially the Old Faithful geyser, one of its most popular. [¬ en.wikipedia.org:_Yellowstone_National_Park]

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Heading for the amazing Mammoth Hot Springs

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

Mammoth Hot Springs is a unique feature, having a similar feature only in Turkey I am told.
These are literally 'hot springs' and have been known to suffer dry spells (for years sometimes). A trail took us along these springs, with names like "Palette Spring", "Minerva Spring", "Jupiter Springs", "Angel Terrace", "White Elephant Terrace", et cetera.
So many beautiful, enchanting features !

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
More dead trees


We were quite fortunate to see some wildlife; this deer ("elk") we saw while we walked a trail.
USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
The elk is also known by its Indian name, Wapiti, which means white rump.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
At some point it stood very still, watching us, and then suddenly raised its head.... but there was no sound !
Still, it must have been a signal as its two young gathered and they ran off....
We felt quite privileged to have witnessed this.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
It was quite dark in the trees, which made photography challenging. A Bull Elk afaik..

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
At least this Bull Moose didn't move much. I was photographing by 1/15sec, my camera stabilized by a branch.

We also came across three bisons...
USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
They are the size of a small car and its a good thing to keep one's distance and/or have a car in between!

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
If one car stops, others will follow suit, even while its not allowed to stop in the middle of the road.

The next day called for an early departure (again). We'd liked it here because the weather proved to be fickle with cold nights, near freezing. At the time we balked about the price for a nicht: US$42,- ☺
A note to the price, the US dollar was expensive for us with the Dutch guilder, prices were double in our currency.

USCan 1986 - travelogue by Ruud Leeuw
Three bisons were grazing near our car, I kept my distance but felt it was a fitting goodbye to the Canyon Lodge.

Unfortunately, this concluded our visit to this park and we made for the exit, vowing to return some day.
And indeed, we did revisit Yellowstone NP in 2014, have a look!

PAGE ONE | PAGE TWO: going north

 

External links:
A brief history of Montana
Virginia City, Montana
British Columbia
National Parks - United States
National Parks - Canada

And That's All For Now, Folks !

 

 
Last updated 26-Jan-2024