VALENCIA, SPAIN
«16-22 March 2023»

VARIOUS


Photos © Ruud Leeuw


 

 

When I compared Lisbon and Valencia for a trip in March, intending to focus on murals, I noticed that during
that month I stood less chance for rain in Valencia than in Lisbon. When I researched further I stumbled on
the Fallas festival, that clinched it. Soon I had air tickets booked and a hotel. Besides the very, very impressive
Fallas festival (and murals) Valencia has of course much more to offer, e.g. historic buildings and the aquarium.

PAGE ONE FALLAS | PAGE TWO URBAN ART | PAGE THREE STREETS | PAGE FOUR VARIOUS

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Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
The Portal de Quart, Plaça de Santa Úrsula.

There are still two (of the twelve) authentic entrance gates to be found here in Valencia. One of these is the Torres de Serranos, the other is the Torres de Quart.

The Porta de Quart or Torres de Quart is a gate that was part of the medieval wall that surrounded the Old City of Valencia, in order to defend it.
The Porta de Quart owes its name to the fact that it is located on the road that from the city center (Plaza de la Virgen, where the Cathedral of Valencia is located) goes to Quart de Poblet. This gate was the western access to the city, which came from the west and Castile.
After the wall was demolished during the second half of the 19th century, this gate was exempted and became known as the Quart towers, which is the name most used today to designate it.
It was ordered to be built in 1356 by Peter the Ceremonious after the start of the war between the crowns of Castile and Aragon, but the works were delayed by the plagues. The Porta de Quart was built between 1441 and 1460.

 

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
Plenty impressive churches and historic buildings (at least their facades / fronts) can be found.

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
A band is on its way to participate in Fallas somewhere in town

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023

Valencia was founded as a Roman colony in 138 BC. Islamic rule and acculturation ensued in the 8th century, together with the introduction of new irrigation systems and crops.
Aragonese Christian conquest took place in 1238, and so the city became the capital of the Kingdom of Valencia.
The city's population thrived in the 15th century, owing to trade with the rest of the Iberian Peninsula, Italian ports and other locations in the Mediterranean sea, becoming one of the largest European cities by the end of the century.
Already harmed by the emergence of the Atlantic Ocean in detriment of the Mediterranean in the global trade networks and the insecurity created by Barbary piracy throughout the 16th century, the city's economic activity experienced a crisis upon the expulsion of the moriscos in 1609.
The city became a major silk-manufacturing centre in the 18th century. And the city served as the accidental seat of the Spanish Government from 1936 to 1937 during the Spanish Civil War. [¬Wikipedia]

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023

'We never look at just one thing; we are always looking at the relation between things and ourselves.' ¬John Berger

'We see the world as 'we' are, not as 'it' is; because it is the "I" behind the 'eye' that does the seeing.' ¬Anaïs Nin

 


Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
MERCAT CENTRAL

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023

Valencia's Mercado Central is one of the largest covered markets in Europe. At this covered market you can find
all kinds of local products, such as oranges, olives, prawns, hams, cheeses and more goodies.
The market is located in a building with a special modernist architecture.

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023

The market is a beautiful location for 'market scenes' and one of the most visited sights of the city.
It also blends perfectly with the surrounding attractions, such as 'La Lonja de la Seda' and the 'Iglesia de los Santos Juanes'. The building consists of iron, glass and ceramics. The highest point is 30 meters.
The market has room for 959 stalls.
The Mercado Central is 8.160 m2 and is divided into two zones. One part is the fish market. The other part is the rest with the bread, vegetables, meat, herbs, et cetera.

 

 


Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
MERCAT DE COLON, Carrer de Jorge Juan.
This iconic 1916 former market set in a grand modernist building is now a dining & shopping hub. Not my scene.
Valencia, walkabout 3-2023

 

 


Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
Libreria Anticuaria Rafael Solaz I found recommended for its huge selection of secondhand books, but
I visited it twice and it remained closed. But across the road you'll find...

...El Asilo del Libro, also in the Carrer de Sant Ferran.
Valencia, walkabout 3-2023

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
Unfortunately I could find nothing in English and even less in terms of photobooks. The shopkeeper was lethargic.

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
I found bookshops hard to find but was advised to check 'El Barrio Chino' for this and found 'Paris-Valencia'.
I checked for English books (almost nil) and photobooks, one I hesitated while holding it but decided against it.
Later I came across another 'Paris-Valencia' branch (there seem to be four), on Plaça d'Alfons el Magnànim,
and bought an English paperback I am pleased with.

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
The Paris-Valencia bookshop in Chinatown, Valencia, near the trainstation ('Renfe')

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
Close to Chinatown I found this Used Bookstore (there's another 'Reread'
nearby, I did not check it out) and we both found a paperback to our liking.
This one is on a main thoroughfare, the Gran Vía de Ramón y Cajal.

 

 


Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
I think I remember these colourful tiles also from Barcelona (a long time ago) and Madrid; I love them.

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
This seems to me of a historic Moorish background..?

The Latin name of the city was Valentia meaning 'strength' or 'valour', due to the Roman practice of recognising the valour of former Roman soldiers after a war.
The Roman historian Livy explains that the founding of Valentia in the 2nd century BC was due to the settling of the Roman soldiers who fought against a Lusitanian rebel, Viriatus, during the Third Lusitanian Raid of the Lusitanian War.

During the rule of the Muslim kingdoms in Spain, it had the title Medina at-Tarab ('City of Joy') according to one transliteration, or Medina at-Turab ('City of Sands') according to another, since it was located on the banks of the River Turia.
By gradual sound changes, Valentia has become Valencia in Castilian, and València in Valencian. The latter has been the only official name of the city since 2017.

 

 

 


Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
What once was a river is now the 'Turia garden' or 'Turia park', which meanders along the historic center,

Valencia lies on the highly fertile alluvial silts accumulated on the floodplain formed in the lower course of the Turia River. At its founding by the Romans, it stood on a river island in the Turia, 6.4 kilometres from the sea.

The Turia Garden is one of the largest urban parks in Spain. It runs through the city along 9 kilometres of green space boasting foot paths, leisure and sports areas, and romantic spots where you can unwind.
From Cabecera Park to the City of Arts and Sciences, the Turia Garden is the perfect place for runners, cyclists, families and nature enthusiasts.
Crossed by 18 bridges full of history, the former riverbed passes by the city's main museums and monuments on either bank.
The vast gardens are built on the former riverbed of the Turia, whose course was altered to prevent constant flooding in the city. After a devastating flood on 14Oct1957, the Turia's course was diverted south of the city, leaving a huge tract of land that crosses the city from West to East, bordering the historical centre.
Several urban planners and landscapists designed different sections of the park, recreating the former river scenery.
They created a unique itinerary of palm trees and orange trees, fountains and pine woods, aromatic plants and ponds, sports facilities and rose beds. The gardens were inaugurated in 1986.
www.visitvalencia.com/en/what-to-see-valencia/turia-gardens]

 

Valencia, walkabout 3-2023
As soon as Fallas has ended, with the bonfires in the evening and night, the next day these decorations are taken down


The Science Park in Valencia seen from the air

 

It was only a 15 minute walk from our hotel, the Hotel Valencia Center on the Av. de Françia, to Oceanogràfic València.
Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)
Striking series of buildings and structures in this Science Park. Due to time constraints we only visited the aquarium.

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)

This is the largest aquarium in Europe, with space for 45.000 living creatures of 500 different species. The main marine ecosystems of the planet have been recreated here.
The avant-garde architecture, the division of the different aquariums and the scientific, recreational and educational objectives bring the underwater world closer to the public and remind visitors of the importance of protecting its flora and fauna. The aquarium is also a platform for scientific research.

The Oceanogràfic consists of several buildings, with examples of the most important ecosystems from all the seas and oceans of the planet.
I've seen some amazing aquariums around the world but this certainly is in the Top Three of them!


Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)

www.visitvalencia.com/en/what-to-see-valencia/city-of-arts-and-ciences/oceanografic-valencia

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)
One can see the one on the right thinking: show off!

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)
Sharks!

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)

Valencia, L'Oceanogràfic (Aquarium)
Oceanogràfic València, awesome & amazing!

 

 

Valencia Institute of Modern Art (IVAM)
Modern Art Museum, Valencia

The museum takes a look at the artistic avant-garde of the 20th century, from Abstract and Pop Art, through to European Informalism and the New Figurative movement.
Its permanent exhibition features the Julio González and Pinazo collections, and it offers a programme of activities with temporary exhibitions, lectures, courses and workshops.
There is also an underground room (which I missed) where visitors can see a large stretch of Valencia's mediaeval city wall, which was demolished over one century ago and discovered during the building works for the museum.
www.spain.info/en/places-of-interest/valencia-institute-modern-art-ivam/]

I visited three of the five halls. Modern Art Museum, Valencia
I am not an art connoisseur, but in recent years I did 'explore' names and exhibitions. I found the art of Asger
Jorn very interesting, a.o. inspired by prehistoric cave drawings but some of it also connects to the history of WWII.

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

Asger Oluf Jorn (b.03Mar1914 – d.01May1973) was a Danish painter, sculptor, ceramic artist, and author.
He was a founding member of the avant-garde movement COBRA and the Situationist International. He was born in Vejrum, in the northwest corner of Jutland, Denmark, and baptized Asger Oluf Jørgensen.
The largest collection of Jorn's works—including his major work Stalingrad—can be seen in the Museum Jorn, Silkeborg, Denmark.
Jorn willed his property and the works of art located inside to the Municipality of Albissola Marina (Savona), so the Italian museum called 'Casa Museo Jorn' was created for displaying his works.
en.wikipedia.org:_Asger_Jorn]

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

The occupation of Denmark by Nazi Germany was a time of deep crisis for Jorn, who had been deeply inculcated with pacifism. The occupation initially sank him into deep depression.
He subsequently became active in the communist resistance movement. During the war he also co-founded with the architect Robert Dahlmann Olsen the underground art group, Helhesten or "hell-horse," and was a contributor to its journal with the same name, Helhesten.
In 1939, he wrote the key theoretical essay, 'Intimate Banalities', published in Helhesten, which claimed that the future of art was kitsch and praised amateur landscape paintings as "the best art today."
He was also the first person to translate Franz Kafka into Danish. [¬en.wikipedia.org:_Asger_Jorn]

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

"This exhibition, at the Institut Valencià dárt Modern, showcases some of the most outstanding works of the Danish painter Asger Jorn. A founding member of avant-garde movements such as Cobra and the Situationist International, Jorn transformed the world by producing, collecting and reworking images. Originality and the avant-garde in its purest form.

In the middle of the 20th century, during a stay in Sweden, he drew several members of the indigenous Sámi people. Over the years, he made several copies of that original drawing and invited various artist friends to experiment by doing the same. The result? A proliferation of interpretations and experiments, open to interpretation by the spectator."

Modern Art Museum, Valencia
A few years ago I attended a photo exhibition in Palazzo Grassi! Fond memories.

Modern Art Museum, Valencia
Screenshot from a video display, leafing through pages and pictures.

Modern Art Museum, Valencia
16 Feb 2023 - 18 Jun 2023 Exhibition: 'Open Creation and its Enemies: Asger Jorn in Situation' LINK


Modern Art Museum, Valencia
'IN A HOUSE, Genealogy of domestic labour and care'. IVAM Centre..

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

"The exhibition In a House. Genealogy of domestic work and care, is a proposal by Ana Penyas (Valencia, 1987), National Comic Award in 2018 for Estamos todas bien, and Alba Herrero (Valencia, 1986) anthropologist and multidisciplinary researcher.

The exhibition is organized from the archival material and life experiences of women of different ages and backgrounds, domestic workers, but also employers. The proposal covers the temporal, spatial and social changes linked to this work since the post-war period, traditionally feminized and precarious."
ivam.es/es/educacion/visita-en-una-casa]




Modern Art Museum, Valencia
Aircraft postcards from Julio González to his family, 1908-1911.


IVAM Centre Julio González
Modern Art Museum, Valencia
Busts, heads & masks by Julio González (IVAM Centre)

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

This exhibition places the work of Julio González (Barcelona, 1876-Paris, 1942) at the center of the aesthetic, political and social debate of his time and aims to generate a discourse that relates all these aspects from the works and documentation that the IVAM preserves of him and other artists of the historical avant-garde.
ivam.es/es/exposiciones/julio-gonzalez-y-las-vanguardias/]

Modern Art Museum, Valencia


Modern Art Museum, Valencia
I am always keen to record a library for its treasure of books and documents, a source of knowledge!


Modern Art Museum, Valencia

The intention of the new exhibition on Ignacio Pinazo is to propose a new biopolitical approach to a part of his work: that formed by the set of less academic representations of style and poetics, produced for the most part by and for the artist himself, both in painting and drawing format.

This body of work is of special interest because the artist himself was recognized by his contemporaries as the promoter of a systematic artistic practice carried out on and in open public spaces. These artistic practices of Pinazo enter directly into relation to the new ways of inhabiting public spaces, the changes in the behaviors of groups and crowds and the relationships established with the cultural context in which they occurred.
ivam.es/es/exposiciones/pinazo-y-el-espacio-publico/]


Modern Art Museum, Valencia

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

Ignacio Pinazo Camarlench (b.11Jan1849 – d.18Oct1916) was a Spanish painter from Valencia. He was one of the most prominent Impressionist painters from late 19th century Spain.

Born into a poor family in Valencia, Pinazo was forced from a young age to assist in supporting the family by practising various trades. He had only attended eight grades when his mother died of the cholera, and young Ignazio was variously employed as a silversmith, a painter of tiles, and a decorator of fans. After his father's death, he lived with his grandparents, and in 1864 enrolled in the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts, Valencia, earning his living as a hatter.
His artistic career started when he was 21, and he achieved his first success in Barcelona three years later. In 1871, work by him was displayed in the National Exhibition of Fine Arts for the first time.
Wikipedia]


Modern Art Museum, Valencia

Modern Art Museum, Valencia

In 1873 the sale of a painting provided sufficient funds for Pinazo to visit Rome for the first time. When he returned to his native city in 1874, he abandoned the conventional historic themes he had so far devoted his efforts to, and instead started painting family subjects, nude figures, and scenes from daily life.
He returned to Rome in 1876, having obtained a grant from the Diputación de València, this time staying for five years.
The annual art exhibitions brought him silver medals in 1881 and 1885, and gold medals in 1887 and 1899.
He also received a royal medal and in 1912 a street in Valencia was named after him.
Wikipedia]

Modern Art Museum, Valencia
Clavariesas, 1900. Best viewed from a distance!

 

 


Created 10-Apr-2022 | Updated 21-Mrt-2024