ENGLAND 2024

PAGE ONE | PAGE TWO: LONDON & YORK

Photos © Ruud Leeuw

Another vacation in England, again we focussed mainly on general history, castles & pubs plus a few aviation items. And again, because it was GOOD fun in recent years, I had added again some birding opportunities as well.
Our plan was basically to start from Harwich, visit the 'D-Day 80' aviation event at North Weald Airfield (Essex) and then head north via London and York.
Read on!

To bottom page

 

Another trip from the south of 'Albion' to the north, driving through parts of England.
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
We had a comfortable crossing from Hoek van Holland ('Hook') to Harwich. Looking forward to a trip with a multitude
of photo opportunities I had packed my camera bag with a selection of my cameras: The Sony A7IV for the 200-600mm (birding!) zoomlens. The Panasonic FZ1000.II for many subjects 'varied', the Leica Q2 for up close and personal and
the small Canon S120 for in the car, easy to grab. I was surprised to find all of my cameras I brought with me
had replaced those I brought in 2019 (UK2019) on a similar trip!☺

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Approaching the docks.
Must state here I enjoyed the crossing with Stena more than DFDS (Newcastle - IJmuiden) on our way home.

 

We stayed in the Essex Golf & Country Club, conveniently located on only a 45 minutes drive
from where we docked in Harwich. What fun it is located on a former WW2 airfield!
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

'Earls Colne was built in 1941 as an airfield for No.3 Group, RAF Bomber Command, although never used as such. Assigned to the US Eighth Air Force (as Station 358) in 1942, its 36 hardstands were increased to 50, bringing the airfield up to Air Ministry 'Class A’ standard.
Part of the site occupied land requisitioned from the Marks Hall estate, whose Jacobean mansion was taken over by various USAAF HQ units in December 1942.
Earls Colne’s first operational tenants were B-17Fs of the Eighth Air Force's 94th Bomb Group in May 1943. Its four squadrons moved to Rougham, Suffolk, on 13 June, having lost nine bombers that day during a mission to Kiel.
The following month, B-26 Marauder ‘medium’ bombers of the 323rd Bomb Group moved in, staying at Earls Colne until July 1944 – having transferred to the US Ninth Air Force on October 16, 1943.
Meanwhile, Marks Hall had operated independently, first as headquarters for the Eighth AF’s 4th Bomb Wing. In October 1943 it became the command and control centre of the Ninth AF’s IX Bomber Command, at which point Earls Colne airfield became the headquarters of the 98th Combat Bomb Wing while continuing to host the 323rd Bomb Group.
After the Americans left for France in the summer of 1944, the RAF’s 296 and 297 Squadrons, flying Halifax aircraft in army co-operation roles, occupied Earls Colne until May 1946.
Today the site includes an industrial park, golf course, leisure centre and an airstrip used by a flying school. It is also home to the Essex Air Ambulance.' [¬ www.americanairmuseum.com/ - /earls-colne]

A future visit to this area (not sure if I stay again here at the Essex Golf Club) may include exploring the local WW2 history, I also came across this website which appears op interest: www.merseamuseum.org.uk

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
I hadn't known there was WW2 history to enjoy here if I hadn't stayed here. But the stay had its faults: twice I woke
up during the night due some sort of generator nearby being activated, the dismissive attitude of the receptionist
in the morning when I reported this (the receptionist upon checkin was much nicer!) and the breakfast in the morning
was a distinct let down.


Only 9 days on British soil and our planning called for quite a varied 'menu'! 'D-Day 80', the 80th anniversary commemorating the WW2 invasion of Normandy, determined the start of our itinerary. I thought the tickets for
the event at Duxford that weekend too expensive (UKL 50 p.p.) and opted for the preceeding friday May 31st at
North Weald with Aero Legends, only UKL 30,- p.p. SEE MY REPORT OF D-DAY 80 @NORTH WEALD.
The rest of the itinerary called for visits to a friend, a day in London and a day in York, castles, pubs, and birding.
It's all here for you to enjoy!

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Only 5 'Daks' were present (and one between the hangars): 3 from the US (2 were stranded en route) and 2 'locals'.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
D-DAY 80 @NORTH WEALD

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
One DC-3 was in VIP configuration and indeed for sale!
D-DAY 80 @NORTH WEALD

 

Heading into London for the day.
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
I am always looking for opportunities to enrich my #OnReading series.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Amersham's railway station lacks glamorous appeal.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
For unknown reasons the 'Mainline Chiltern' did not run that day, we asked the stationmaster but he did not know.
The train would have taken slightly more than 30 minutes, the tube took an hour to Piccadilly Circus.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
For a varied report (including pictures illustrating the CL Final between Real Madrid - Dortmund supporters)
see my page LONDON & YORK.

 

Fast forward to an en route stop in Nottingham, for lunch and the castle.
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
'Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem', built in 1189, is known as
England's oldest surviving inn. The staff at the bar weren't the brightest.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
More about the lace industry further down this report.

NOTTINGHAM CASTLE (MUSEUM)
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Nottingham is of course well known for the Robin Hood legend!

While King Richard I ('The Lionheart') was away on the Third Crusade, along with a great number of English noblemen, Nottingham Castle was occupied by supporters of Prince John, including the Sheriff of Nottingham.
In the legends of Robin Hood, Nottingham Castle is the scene of the final showdown between the sheriff and the heroic outlaw.[¬ Wikipedia]

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Recorded Friar Tuck for my #OnReading series.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
It was warm, the sun burning down, inactivity seemed attractive but we did not have the time.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
The gatehouse to the castle on the hill

Nottingham Castle is a Stuart Restoration-era ducal mansion in Nottingham, England, built on the site of a Norman castle built starting in 1068, and added to extensively through the medieval period, when it was an important royal fortress and occasional royal residence.
In decline by the 16th century, the original castle, except for its walls and gates, was demolished after the English Civil War in 1651.
The site occupies a commanding position on a natural promontory known as 'Castle Rock' which dominates the city skyline, with cliffs 130 feet (40 m) high to the south and west.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
The castle was converted to a palace and later converted to a gallery / museum

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
A clear illustration on how the castle overlooked the countryside, aptly named 'castle rock'

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud LeeuwNottingham's medieval castle was converted to Ducal Palace in 1679, the museum openened in 1878

After the restoration of Charles II in 1660, the present 'Ducal Mansion' was built for the 1st Duke of Newcastle and completed by his son, the 2nd Duke of Newcastle, after the 1st Duke's death.
This "Italianate" palace was seen as one of the finest in England at the time.
Despite the destruction of the keep and fortifications of the upper bailey, some rock cut cellars and medieval pointed arches survive beneath the mansion, together with a long passage to the bottom of the rock, commonly known as Mortimer's Hole, through which guided tours take place, starting at the castle and ending at Brewhouse Yard.
Wikipedia]

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
'Today, Cluny Lace Company is the only company in England still making lace on Nottingham machines.'

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

The castle is presently owned by Nottingham City Council.
After a £30 million restoration from 2018, running of the site was undertaken by independent charitable Nottingham Castle Trust with reopening on 21 June 2022.
The castle closed again on 21 November 2022 when the trust went into liquidation owing the council £2.68 million, with all employees made redundant by the joint-administrators...
The castle and grounds reopened to visitors on 26 June 2023.

Our visit was on 02Jun24, a timely visit then!


Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Salt-glazing. 'The kilns, techniques and processes became a closely guarded secret, as the pots sold across the UK,
Europe and North America. Nottingham Ware was popular well into the 19th century.'

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
'Each bear pot was unique, thwon in two halves, with arms, legs, chain links and other features moddelled by hand.
The fur was formed by grinding once-fired clay in to chips.'

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
The museum's art gallery, the centrepiece of the former Midland Counties Art Museum.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
'Market Place, Nottingham, c.1920 - by Nottingham artist Arthur Spooner.'
'On this bright and busy market day people are browsing and chatting. Part of the market square is in the shadow,
which maks the colours of the fruit and vegetable stalls caught by the sunlight appear even more vibrant in contrast.'

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
One for my #LOOK series.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

THE LUDDITES. By 1811 the textile workers of Nottinghamshire faced starvation. Wages were collapsing, while
food prices soared. Many believed their woes were caused by the market being flooded with cheap, poor quality
textiles, produced by unskilled workers.
Forbidden from forming unions or going on strike, and their petitions to Parliament ignored, some resorted to desperate measures. Styling themselves as followers of Ned Ludd, a mythical Robin Hood-like figure, they secretly launched attacks on their employers' machines.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Parliamentarian forces battling against the Royalists.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud LeeuwThis This historic centre seemed nice but we had to make tracks, heading up further north, to York.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

 

Our stay for 3 nights: the Aldwark Manor Estate
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
It so happened again that my wife's birthday was again abroad... It seemed a good idea to celebrate it with a luxury stay!
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Aldwark Manor Estate Hotel may have been a bit above our station, but it was worth it.

There was a moated manor house on the site from the Mediaeval period, and it was owned by the Frankland family from the late 16th century.
It was demolished before 1848, and the estate was tenanted to a farmer, whose house was next to the former building.
In 1863, Lady Frankland-Russell commissioned a new house, on a more southerly site, atop Pasture Hill. Around the house, a kitchen garden and two lodges were constructed, and new parkland was laid out. The Frankland family let the house to various tenants until 1949, when they sold it to Kingston upon Hull Council.
In 1954, the council opened a school in the building.
The building was converted into a hotel in 1978, with the grounds becoming a golf course.
The hotel was later extended, to provide 54 bedrooms.
In 2024, a new extension was constructed, providing a new spa and leisure centre, conference and banqueting rooms, and 37 additional bedrooms. [¬ en.wikipedia.org:_Aldwark_Manor]

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
I would like to stay here again, I enjoyed the massive bar in The Squadron Bar!

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
In the 'Elements' restaurant we enjoyed fine breakfasts & dinner.

 

Daytrip to York, only a 30 minutes drive from our hotel, through a nice countryside. Parked at the Q-Park Shambles.

A shortcut into town, along the river Foss

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Clifford's Tower. Next time we'll climb it, I promise!

York Castle is a fortified complex in the city of York.
It consists of a sequence of castles, prisons, law courts and other buildings, which were built over the last nine centuries on the south side of the River Foss.
The now ruined keep of the medieval Norman castle is commonly referred to as Clifford's Tower. Built originally on the orders of William I to dominate the former Viking city of Jórvík, the castle suffered a tumultuous early history before developing into a major fortification with extensive water defences.
After a major explosion in 1684 rendered the remaining military defences uninhabitable, York Castle continued to be used as a gaol and prison until 1929.
en.wikipedia.org:_York_Castle]

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
This photo and the one below show different street scenes, my general impression York wasn't (yet) overrun by tourists

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
See my report on our visit to York on my LONDON & YORK

 

Heading for the coastal cliffs I felt again very pleased with driving through Britain with its nice countryside.
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Far away views and driving through small towns with historic churches. Lovely!

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Our goal for the morning: RSPB Bempton Cliffs. Gannets were found in enormous quantities!

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
While I came for the Puffins (they seem to be the marketing tool for all the bird reserves), they were now present
in disappointing numbers and sometimes hard to find or make out. But I came to love the Gannets!

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
The cliffs here are very high, my 200-600mm zoomlens did not reach to the birds on the water.
For an extensive report seem my page on BIRDING 2024

 


SCARBOROUGH CASTLE
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
For an afternoon visits we drove a little north, to Scarborough Castle.

Scarborough Castle is a former medieval royal fortress situated on a rocky promontory overlooking the North Sea and Scarborough, North Yorkshire, England.
The site of the castle, encompassing the Iron Age settlement, Roman signal station, an Anglo-Scandinavian settlement and chapel, the 12th-century enclosure castle and 18th-century battery, is a scheduled monument of national importance.
Wikipedia]

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
The weather had turned, we walked up the gate with our umbrellas deployed but by the time
we had purchased our tickets, 5 minutes later, it was dry! The clouds added to the atmosphere.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Fortifications for a wooden castle were built in the 1130s, but the present stone castle dates from the 1150s.
Over the centuries, several other structures were added, with medieval monarchs investing heavily in what was then an important fortress that guarded the Yorkshire coastline, Scarborough's port trade, and the north of England from Scottish or continental invasion.
It was fortified and defended during various civil wars, sieges and conflicts, as kings fought with rival barons, faced rebellion and clashed with republican forces, though peace with Scotland and the conclusion of civil and continental wars in the 17th century led to its decline in importance.
Wikipedia]

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
The history of Scarborough Castle is clearly displayed in several signs. Well done.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

The Anglo-Saxons built a chapel on the station site around the year 1000, the remains of which are still visible.
This is reputed to have been destroyed during the invasion of Harald Hardrada in 1066.
A much later Icelandic poem claims that a Viking settlement around the harbour was burnt down in 1066 by Hardrada's forces, who built a large bonfire on the headland to supply burning brands to hurl at the villagers below.] However, there is no archaeological evidence of such an event, nor any of the Viking presence.
The first evidence of the harbour settlement coincides with the establishment of the stone castle around 1157–1164. This grew from a small settlement around a wooden fortress which the stone castle replaced.

Wikipedia]

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
One can see what strategic significance its location held.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
The Keep, built between 1158-1164. Demolished in 1649.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Nice view over Scarborough...

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
... and the surrounding area

 

THE NATIONAL CENTRE FOR BIRDS OF PREY @HELMSLEY
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
By chance we came upon this centre and found ourselves in time for the 11:00 demonstration!
www.ncbp.co.uk/visit-us

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
The Turkey Vulture coming in for its snack.
We enjoyed 4 demonstrations; the birds display their flying and return for their snack which constitute their meal.
The demonstrators were informative and entertaining. We were thrilled to bits!
See my BIRDING 2024 page

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
We'll try to come back here, for the birds but also for those castle ruines we noticed on our way out.
And Rievaulx Abbey is nearby but there is only so much one can visit in a day!

 

NORTH YORK MOORS NATIONAL PARK
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Driving east on the A170 we took a turn north, on the A169 for Whitby Abbey. Fascinating countryside.
Only later I noticed there was the North Yorkshire Moors Railway near our turn off at Pickering: plenty to return to!

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
On the coast we noticed this M.o.D. installation: RAF Fylingdales

Thanks to Alexis Antonakis for forwarding me the Wikipedia link to explain this installation!
'Royal Air Force Fylingdales, or more simply RAF Fylingdales, is a Royal Air Force station on Snod Hill in the North York Moors, England. Its motto is Vigilamus ("We are watching").
It is a radar base and is also part of the Ballistic Missile Early Warning System (BMEWS).

As part of intelligence-sharing arrangements between the United States and United Kingdom, data collected at RAF Fylingdales are shared between the two countries.
Its primary purpose is to give the British and US governments warning of an impending ballistic missile attack (part of the so-called four minute warning during the Cold War).
A secondary role is the detection and tracking of orbiting objects; Fylingdales is part of the United States Space Surveillance Network.
As well as its early-warning and space-tracking roles, Fylingdales has a third function – the Satellite Warning Service for the UK. It keeps track of spy satellites used by other countries, so that secret activities in the UK can be carried out when they are not overhead. The armed services, defence manufacturers and research organisations, including universities, take advantage of this facility. [¬en.wikipedia.org:_RAF_Fylingdales]

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

The North York Moors is an upland area in north-eastern Yorkshire, England. It contains one of the largest expanses of heather moorland in the United Kingdom.
The area was designated as a National Park in 1952, through the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act 1949. Covering an area of 554 sq mi (1,430 km2), the National Park has a population of 23,380.
It is administered by the North York Moors National Park Authority, which is based in Helmsley.

The Esk Valley Line is an east-west branch line rail link from Whitby to Middlesbrough in the north, and the North Yorkshire Moors steam railway runs from Pickering to Grosmont with a link to Whitby.
Wikipedia]


WHITBY ABBEY
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Whitby Abbey was on my list since 2009, but when we landed in the South we never got this far north. And if we
landed at Newcastle it always felt like a loss of time in a busy schedule to go south for this impressive abbey.
Now at last!

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Originally I wanted to visit the Shetland Isles but in February I was already too late for summer bookings and
left it for 2025. This was an improvised plan, booked in april, for D-Day 80 and a visit to a friend of ours we'd
not seen for 7 years thanks to Covid. Birding and yet unseen roads took us further up north.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Whitby Abbey saw less destruction than others during Henry VIII's dissolution, although the structure was later
plundered by the Cholmley family who built a mansion adjacent to the abbey.

Historic maritime Whitby with stunning Whitby Abbey ruins high up on a ridge overlooking the coast (still used as a navigation marker by shipping) is the perfect coastal holiday destination.
Captain Cook trained here, and Bram Stoker was inspired by the church yard and abbey in Whitby to write 'Dracula'...
Whitby jet stone, the town's iconic deep black stone popular with the Victorians, is on sale in many unique craft shops and the Victorian bay offers fantastic sandy seaside fun for the kids including boat trips from Whitby's historic harbour. The River Esk cuts through Whitby and a swing bridge connects the two West and East sides of the town.
To the East you've some of the best arts, crafts and specialist shopping in Yorkshire alongside fine tea rooms, atmospheric inns and the Cook Museum. To reach the abbey the only way up is via the 199 steps (Caedmon's Trod). To the West sit Theatres, cinemas, Whitby Sands beach, the Whitby Museum, the Lifeboat Museum, parks, a boating lake and mini golf and high on the cliff the Captain Cook Monument and distinctive Whitby whale bones. Whitby offers a choice of accommodation from hotels to B&Bs, particularly around the West Cliff area.

I'd like to explore Whitby's maritime heritage at the Cook Museum one day, for now we parked close to the Abbey ruins and visitor centre high on East Cliff. An extensive coastal walk, Whitby - Robin Hoods Bay, is beyond our options, alas.


Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Whitby Abbey was a 7th-century Christian monastery that later became a Benedictine abbey
The abbey church was situated overlooking the North Sea on the East Cliff above Whitby in North Yorkshire, a centre of the medieval Northumbrian kingdom. The abbey and its possessions were confiscated by the crown under Henry VIII during the Dissolution of the Monasteries between 1536 and 1545.
Since that time, the ruins of the abbey have continued to be used by sailors as a landmark at the headland.
Since the 20th century, the substantial ruins of the church have been declared a Grade I Listed building and are in the care of English Heritage. [¬ Wikipedia]

Next time I'll tr to visit the site museum which is is housed in Cholmley House, a 17th century banqueting hall repurposed by design studio Stanton Williams in 2002.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

The first monastery was founded in 657 AD by the Anglo-Saxon era King of Northumbria, Oswy (Oswiu) as Streoneshalh (the older name for Whitby).
He appointed Lady Hilda, abbess of Hartlepool Abbey and grand-niece of Edwin, the first Christian king of Northumbria, as founding abbess. The name Streoneshalh is thought to signify Fort Bay or Tower Bay, in reference to a supposed Roman settlement that previously existed on the site (never proven).
The double monastery of Celtic monks and nuns was home (614–680) to the great Northumbrian poet Cædmon.

In 664 the Synod of Whitby took place at the monastery to resolve the question of whether the Northumbrian church would adopt and follow Celtic Christian traditions or adopt Roman practice,[8] including the manner of calculating (o.a.) the date of Easter.
Streoneshalch monastery was laid waste by Danes in successive raids between 867 and 870 under Ingwar and Ubba and remained desolate for more than 200 years. A locality named 'Prestebi' was recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086, which may be a sign that religious life was revived in some form after the Danish raids.

Reinfrid, a soldier of William the Conqueror, became a monk and travelled to Streoneshalh, which was then known as Prestebi or Hwitebi (the "white settlement" in Old Norse). He approached William de Percy for a grant of land, who gave him the ruined monastery of St. Peter. [¬ Wikipedia]


Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
'People have lived on the headland at Whitby for at least 3.000 years..'

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
The Benedictine abbey thrived for centuries as a centre of learning. This 2nd monastery was destroyed by Henry VIII
in 1540 during the Dissolution of the Monasteries. The abbey was bought by Sir Richard Cholmley. It remained in
the Cholmley family and their descendants, the Strickland family. The Strickland family passed it to the UK government
in 1920. The ruins are now owned and maintained by English Heritage.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
In December 1914, Whitby Abbey was shelled by the German battlecruisers Von der Tann and Derfflinger,
whose crew "were aiming for the Coastguard Station on the end of the headland." Scarborough and Hartlepool
were also attacked. The abbey buildings sustained considerable damage during the ten-minute attack.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Rain threatened, passing clouds offered room for bright sunshine but also cast it in deep shadows.
A fierce wind was blowing.

 

We still had to drive 2hrs40 for our B&B in Thropton: the Thropton Demesme Farm B&B. We'd stayed here before.
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
We were pleasantly welcomed again by Dave and Pauline. It's a fine location to roam the area, e.g. Alnwick & Seahouses.
Nearby Cragside Manor House & Gardens was recommended for a visit, but alas has to await another visit in the area.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
In spite of 3 recently built upmarket houses there's still a fine view on the hills.
But here I went for the rainbow. En route we'd had all sorts of weather including hail.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Thropton has a nice pub & restaurant, The Three Wheat Heads. Recently added was a gasstation/SPAR supermarket.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Such a pity Dave & Pauline are considering selling their B&B, they are getting on in age with obvious health issues.


Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Alnwick is a nice drive from Thropton / Rothbury, we revisited Barter Books in the former trainstation.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
This time I found nil photobooks and soon continued to Seahouses fro the booked boattrip.

 

SEAHOUSES & FARNE ISLANDS
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
I had booked with Billy Shiel's for the top deck could also protect against the elements and I like an elevated
platform for my photography. Ny numerous recounts (2 remained missing) I learned 89 went on board.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
A previous trip, undertaken on a whim, took us around the Farne Island, this time our booking included
landing at Inner Farne, to see the birds up close. We were only allowed 1 hour on land, but it was enough.

Farne Islands - Phoography by Ruud Leeuw (2024)
So many Puffins here! See more on my BIRDING 2024 Page.

 

After 2 nights at the B&B -for one day at the Farne Islands- it was time to make our way for the ferry and home.
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
En route to Newcastle-upon-Tyne for the DFDS ferry we did a morning visit to Prudhoe Castle.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Archaeological excavations have shown that the first castle on the site was a Norman motte and bailey, built sometime in the mid 11th century.
Following the Norman Conquest, the Umfraville family took over control of the castle. Robert d’Umfraville was formally granted the barony of Prudhoe by Henry I but it is likely that the Umfravilles had already been granted Prudhoe in the closing years of the 11th century.
The Umfravilles (probably Robert) initially replaced the wooden palisade with a massive rampart of clay and stones and subsequently constructed a stone curtain wall and gatehouse. [¬ Wikipedia]

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
A moment with sunshine bt soon we had rain coming down again

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Unfortunately they had the builders in, it may have accounted for the empty rooms, but there was enough to enjoy.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

In 1173 William the Lion of Scotland invaded the North East to claim the earldom of Northumberland.
The head of the Umfraville family, Odinel II, refused to support him and as a result the Scottish army tried to take Prudhoe Castle...
The attempt failed as the Scots were not prepared to undertake a lengthy siege.
The following year William attacked the castle again but found that Odinel had strengthened the garrison, and after a siege of just three days the Scottish army left.
Following the siege, Odinel further improved the defences of the castle by adding a stone keep and a great hall.
Wikipedia]

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Odinel died in 1182 and was succeeded by his son Richard. Richard became one of the barons who stood against King John, and as a result forfeited his estates to the crown. They remained forfeited until 1217, the year after King John's death.
In 1314, Robert D’Umfraville IV was taken prisoner by the Scots at Bannockburn, but was soon released, though he was deprived of the earldom of Angus and of his Scottish estates.
In 1316 King Edward granted Robert 700 marks to maintain a garrison of 40 men-at-arms and 80 light horsemen at Prudhoe. In 1381 the last of the line, Gilbert III, died without issue and his widow married Henry Percy, 1st Earl of Northumberland. On her death in 1398, the castle passed to the Percy family.

The Percys added a new great hall to the castle shortly after they took possession of it. Henry Percy, 1st Earl of Northumberland fought against Henry IV and took part in the Battle of Shrewsbury, for which act he was attainted and his estates, including Prudhoe, were forfeited to the Crown in 1405.
The Percys regained ownership of the Prudhoe estates in 1440, after a prolonged legal battle. However, Henry Percy, 3rd Earl of Northumberland fought on the Lancastrian side in the Wars of the Roses and was killed at the Battle of Towton in 1461.
Wikipedia]


Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

The castle was once again restored to Thomas Percy, the 7th Earl in about 1557.
He was convicted of taking part in the Rising of the North in 1569. He escaped, but was recaptured and was executed in 1572.
The castle was thereafter let out to many and various tenants and was not used as a residence after the 1660s. In 1776 it was reported to be ruinous.
Between 1808 and 1817, Hugh Percy, 2nd Duke of Northumberland carried out substantial repairs to the ancient fabric and replaced the old dwellings within the walls with a Georgian mansion adjoining the keep.
In 1966 the castle was given over to the Crown and is now in the custody of English Heritage and is open to the public. [¬ Wikipedia]

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
'The present structure was the only entrance to the castle, but has remarkably few featurs to defence.
This may explain the creation of a further tower and barbican (fortified gateway) fronting this gatehouse
in the decades following 1150'. An impressive route into the castle for the guests and visitors these days.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Prudhoe Castle from the grounds
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw


Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Crossing the railroad into Ovingham (seemed a nice place, next time?) we went for another ruin, Aydon Castle.
But the rain kept falling heavily so instead we opted for the Robin Hood Inn, for warm coffees and scones.

 

Robin Hood Bar & Restaurant, on the B6318 (parallel to the A69, between Wall Houses and Harlow Hill)
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Explore Tripadvisor for (positive) reviews (but mind there are many venues by that name)

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
It's probably also on a walking trail as we see many hikers taking a break for the dismal weather.


Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
We still had some time before reporting at 15:00 wat the DFDS docks, so we did a quick stop at Newcastle's
Aladdin's Cave. Strictly a cash business, I spent my last tenner for a simple souvenir. Nice place!

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

 

Homeward bound, it's been good!
Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud LeeuwDriving up the ramp at 15:00 we needed to park three abreast, one of us had to climb over the seats.
Also in other respects (food) we found DFDS disappointing versus Stena Line.

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Of course it had started to rain again. However the crossing was calm.


Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
A few additions for my #OnReading series (the above on the Stena Line crossing to Harwich)

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw
Two #OnReading taken on the DFDS crossing to IJmuiden

Travels in England, 2024 - photography by Ruud Leeuw

 

 

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